Any recommendations for gun care products

[Muskett]

Much of the stock oil potions only differ by how much hardened is in them. A sealer will have loads compared to a conditioner. Any of the natural oil conditioners will work pretty similarly, and even mixing them up won't make a load of difference.
Someone will swear theirs is "better".

Using too much just makes things tacky. Use very little and rub in to hand warm, and then allow to dry. Many very fine coats adds up to a great finish, and every coat takes 12-18 hours between coats. Why a high gloss finish takes weeks.
I just do one coat on a dry stock, and rub and wipe so there is hardly a trace, which is enough to get the protection. Enough to feed the wood, protect it, but not to change the look.

Rifle gets a soaking.
Dry with a cloth.
Oil with an oily cloth.
Leave to sweat, and dry further at room temperature, but not near a radiator. Leave drying for good few hours, if not overnight, wipe and oil again.
Stocks might get either gun oil, or Conditioner Oil. A deep whitening from the damp demands a refinish done correctly, but that will only really happen if left wet for 6 hours or overnight in a warm wet sleeve/case. It's the warm wet that does the damage. Why wiping down before the long drive home is time well spent, a must. Cold wet isn't the same as the oils and waxes aren't warm and don't mix with the water.

[Paul Sum]

I have a rag in an old pellet tin, soaked with oil ( 3 in 1 or the pound shop equivalent).
Just wipe over the metal work after acclimatising.

Thanks, sometimes the simple solution is the best. Will add to the pocket on my gun bag.

Only problem now is the bag is getting heavier, just like my fishing bag. But as the saying goes -

better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it…….

[Paul Sum]

And I suppose it begs the question, what other useful stuff do you keep in your gun bag ???

[laverdabru]

And I suppose it begs the question, what other useful stuff do you keep in your gun bag ???

I don't get out with mine nowadays. But when I used to take a couple of rifles 'on holiday' would have a few 'lens wipes' from Lidls/Aldi, & a cycling multi tool. The latter had useful hex keys for 'scopes etc. And, although I prefer 'proper' gunsmithing screwdrivers, it has crosshead & normal ones for emergency use.

Bru

[ricardolamos]

Napier gun oil for the metalwork.

Phillips walnut oil for unfinished wood.

[Geezer]

Ballistol. Great stuff on metal and wood.

[TonyL]

One of my screwdriver sets (and I use it most of the time for gun tinkering now) is a nice, compact one from Halfords. Nice, hollow ground slot head inserts so as not to damage the screws and has Phillips, Allen and Torx heads too. So very versatile. Nice and compact and will fit in most bags / boxes.

[rapidresponse1]

im fairly sure ive the same one tony good bit of kit

[TonyL]

Does it have the soft, rubberised red block, holding the handle and all the bits, Jeff? It's my most used screwydriver thing when working on my airguns these days.

[TheAviator]

Acf 50

[4end]

If it’s a Walnut oil finished stock, new ones in particular can be quite dry. I’ve had that with BSAs, FX, Webley etc. You’ll see people swear by different things, but for me the CCL gunstock conditioning oil is excellent for properly sealing the wood from the elements and enhancing it, whilst maintaining an understated matte finish. Obviously oils (of any type) are no good for varnished finishes. Takes a tiny bit of effort for a few days, but follow the instructions and you can’t go wrong.

Available from here and other places:
https://www.cheshiregunroom.com/ccl-...nditioning-oil

CCL oil is basically linseed with additions. Linseed is relatively cheap and with refined raw linseed absolutely any ham fisted bodger can oil finish a stock without it going wrong because any surplus left on the surface does not go gummy. Instructions are not available on the bottle but just slap it on and then more when the previous coats have been absorbed until it will not absorb any more. Any natural oil will give a matt finish that can, if required be polished to a shine.