I'm glad you two have said this. Sometimes I look in the stock hole and it looks like it's worn and could use an extra convex washer.
I'm glad you two have said this. Sometimes I look in the stock hole and it looks like it's worn and could use an extra convex washer.
The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.
Blue loctite sorts it, as others have said. A good friend of mine recommended a gold gel ink pen to put two datum marks on the bolt head and surround to see if the bolt is starting to move.
Interesting thread.
I'm guessing the O ring under the head may cut out vibration that loosens the screws?
Loctite Blue is designed to be easy to undo, the Red needs 500 degrees C according to their website
I'd go with the Blue, been using it for years on motorbikes. I'd make sure threads/screws are clean, with surgical spirit, applied with a cotton bud to the threads in the gun.
Only time I've had a similar problem with stock screws loosening was with a Diana 27 & a Hawk Mk 2, turned out to be shagged threads. But in the earlier post, you said they looked OK.
HTH
Bru
Webley Mk3 x2, Falcon & Junior rifles, HW35x2, AirSporter x2, Gold Star, Meteors x2, Diana 25. SMK B19, Webley Senior, Premier, Hurricane x 2, Tempest, Dan Wesson 8", Crosman 3576, Legends PO8. Kral Puncher K.
Blue threadlock will work. And I really also like Jon's 'O' ring suggestion. But unless the threads are getting tired, I'd have to guess that something else is at play here, as in harshness in the cycle due to an issue.....In all my years of shooting many springers I've only experienced one that kept loosening the stock screws in quick order. With many rifles you might have to give them a quick nip following those first shots from new, but I've never had to keep doing it apart from on one gun.
Weirdly, my new Diana AM03 gas ram has never needed anything nipping up.
The rifle that loosened its stock screws was the HW35 that I've worked on recently. Mick, T20, diagnosed it spot-on as detonating. The cycle was quick. Didn't seem particularly harsh, but your trigger finger would take a smack on the odd shot. Now sorted. Much nicer to shoot. Bolts don't come loose.
I suspect breech and / or piston seals or issue with spring force.
THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!
Could the wood be collapsing under the screw heads?
On some guns I've ended up reinforcing the wood under the screw heads with cyanoacrylate (super glue) or glued in metal pillars.
Too many airguns!
Good thinking, evert.I've often wondered about that on ageing guns / stocks. If using metal pillars, then isolate with a nylon washer / 'O' ring? Or maybe a pillar made from a tough engineering plastic? In some cases, I wonder if a flat steel washer against the wood, backed up by a nylon one might do the job?
THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!
For wood such as a stock where screws are used to fix to metal it is prudent to use recessed brass cups to stop the wood being damaged, on an old bsa the oil of ages will have undoubtedly softened the wood around the original screw holes, sprung or star washers will dig in a tiny bit more at every tightening, the cups can be retro fitted.
Last edited by Sir rocco; 23-03-2025 at 09:26 AM.
I remember when one of the fields they were storing vauxhall cavaliers in once upon a time flooded ..... as the foam in the seats sets in moisture they turned rock hard and had to be replaced .....anyways the blot manufacturers had used green thread locker on them and there was no way those seats were coming out without cutting .....made that last a few weekends overtime![]()
Loving the countryside air
Soft shooting guns wouldn't really have a problem
Loving the countryside air
A few wraps of ptfe plumbers tape around the threads normally stops screws working loose and easy to remove again when needed..
A mate had a Hw80 that was a bit lively, and used the green lock tight after repeatedly having to retighten the big trigger guard screw bolt. It was a complete bugger to remove,and he needed a new one after removing.
Les..
I'l be removing the action to check the stock/bedding and I've ordered a service kit for the Mk. 5 from Chambers !
“Let us not dwell on the distance we have fallen short, let us dwell on the distance we have travelled" !
Coincidentally I've just taken an ancient HW25 (What? Youngest son's first gun and it was knackered then!) into my local gunsmith. After he stopped laughing and I'd explained that the blueing, the bolt for the stock and the bent barrel needed fixing, for sentimental reasons, he set to work. Aaron Wheeler does a very good line in blueing, did his best with the barrel (nipping the jaws back together helped) and told me what he'd done with the bolt.
The seating was stripped so any appearance of the bolt tightening was exercise in insincerity at best. From there, knowing that I wasn't after restoration level work he seated a nut of the appropriate size and all was well. He advised a castellated grip washer - I think on the trigger mount or there's an issue with cocking the rifle.
Doesn't sound like the same issue really but thought I'd share. I'm unendingly impressed with the solutions you guys come up with