Open the barrel fully to cock the pistol and then get some oil through the tiny hole at the front top of the cylinder. Then close the barrel a cm or two until you see the lube washer under the same hole (not the o-ring, a rough looking felt/leather washer). Get enough oil into this to soak it all around (long job without dismantling). This may sort your problem. If not, try and bump the piston against compression, re-open the barrel and re-cock immediatley and completely. This sorted mine.
Dismantling the front end is simple if awkward. Clean around a pin and c-clip then stick sellotape or similar around the atrea to protect the paint. Two jewellers screwdrivers will force the c-clips off (only one needs removing) but have a large sheet of clear plastic bag over the work in case the clip flies! The c-clips are quite soft; it's just awkward forcing them open. Remove the pin, lift the cylinder and unscrew the end cap with circlip pliers or similar. The piston will then come out to facilitate lubing/changing the o-ring and completely lubing the lube washer.
If I try to close the barrel slowly, I still have an audible leak from around the valve area and it will not compress. Bumping against compression sorts this. Valve end dismantle due when I have more time.
Last edited by derekm; 08-02-2025 at 08:34 AM.
Walther CP-2 Match, FAS 604 & Tau 7 target pistols, Smith & Wesson 6" & 4" co2 pistol,
Baikal IZH 53 pistol, Gamo CFX Royal,177, Umarex SA-10 CO2 pistol.