Sheridan Blue Streak CO2 Rebuild, need help!

[MickvanR]

Hello guys,

My grandfather, now 95 years old, gave me a Sheridan Blue Streak CO2 (think around 1976) and I would love to show it to him and use it. The problem is/was that is was partly disassembled. After some research I found out that some parts are missing and finding them would be a challenge.
During that research I found a Sheridan specialist in The Netherlands, after a nice chat he offered me some help and I've send the gun to him.

The problem: the exhaust valve cap nut won't come loose, probably because of rust. Two of his valve tools already broke. He already tried to heat it up but he is afraid of internal damage.

Is there something we can try, before we decide that the gun will never be operational again?

Thanks in advance!!

Greetings Mick from The Netherlands

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAE

[flatrajectory]

I am not familiar with the co2 version, but have resealed many pump up ones. I doubt that rust is the problem, as the valve nut is brass and the body brass/bronze too. It may have been worked on previously and been cross threaded.?
It may have some corrosion, not rust . He could try heating the tube with a hot air gun rather than a blow torch, then soaking in a penetrating oil or similar, but if he has broken 2 tools ... that is seriously stuck and may be a wall hanger after all.
Pete.

[MickvanR]

Hi Pete, thanks for the response! What do you exactly mean with 'cross threaded'? That's not possible if the body is normal thread? Or do you mean, try to release the nut clockwise instead of counter clockwise? Doesn't sound very smart, sorry
Is there any risk to soak it in WD40 or something, for a night?

[--ped--]

i've not worked on an f type but have done plenty of the other types with this valve nut
the hardest i have en countered was a new version of the f type the gs397
i had to make two nylon collets to grip the gun so as not to damage it as it had to be held in a vice
the nut had been loctited i soaked it in penetrating oil for a month and gently(remember all soldered together so used vinyl welding hot air gun ) warmed it a few times
eventually it came free
not sure what valve tool he was using but to break one they must be pretty weak ,i make them and you'll not break one

[MickvanR]

Hello Ped,

I fully understand. My Sheridan is one of the first made in 1976, it has a steel nut he told me. Today I received a picture of the tools he used:



My assumption is that the tools are probably too weak, is that possible? Maybe an idea to try your custom made tool?

The plan now is to remove the solder tin and remove the inside completely, it's a big challenge but we're running out of options.

Anyone a good advise?

[PLAGUE]

My advise - listen to Ped, he knows.

[nikvanorton]

It looks to me like the tools don't fit properly and are only engaging at the very end. If that's how mashed they are, my concern would be how much damage they have caused to the nut?

With the greatest of respect, if he's a Sheridan expert he should sort this out without needing input from the customer. I'm sure he's a nice guy, but If the gun was mine (and had great sentimental value), I think would find someone (like Ped) who really knows what he's talking about.

[--ped--]

steel nuts are bad news
i have only come across them a few times on very early sheridans
i can see from the pic of the tool why they've failed on a steel nut
you do get a bit of variation in the nuts so what would work on brass nut if it didn't fit spot on would round off in steel
i've just checked a steel one against a brass one and it is .19mm wider across the flats
the one i have is also very tight in my test valve which i know has good threads

possibly making one in silver steel and hardening it would be the best bet as trying to remove the complete valve will just ruin the gun