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Original Model 50 strip, including 3 ball trigger
Part 1: The strip
ORIGINAL / DIANA MODEL 50 Strip and rebuild
Much also applies to the Model 35 break barrel
These notes are designed to help you strip and rebuild the Original Model 50 underlever rifle that has the feared ball bearing trigger. Much of the notes also apply to the Original Model 35 that has the same trigger assembly.
Strip:
Remove fore and rear sights.
Remove action from stock. There is a simple bolt in the trigger guard. The front of the stock is held to the action by a nut that fastens to the underlever catch. This is a round nut with cut outs in the rim. It is possible to carefully use a small screwdriver to turn this but I made a simple tool to fit over the underlever catch and turn the nut. The cross bolt through the action is also the underlever pivot bolt and holds the underlever in place. Action is now free, as are the underlever parts; underlever and cocking arm.
Remove the loading tap. Not absolutely necessary but makes life easier later as if left I found it interferes with my homemade spring compressor. Press down on the tap plate as you release the 2 screws as there is a spring laden ball underneath. Just release carefully and it will be OK. Do not lose the shims on the tap.
Remove the small barrel cover. This may be held by a small spring pin but I have seen rifles where the pin is missing.
Remove the action end cap.
FOR INFORMATION: Look at the end of the action. Note the inner circular sleeve about 15mm diameter inside the end of the action and the smaller (about 5mm) round object behind the sleeve and at the top of the action. The 15mm sleeve is the part that holds the 3 ball bearings (4.75mm ). It is about 5 cm long and locates against the spring guide. It is held in place by 2 cross pins through the action. Do not remove these yet! The 5mm round object is the end of a spring laden prod.
I now find it best to put action in a spring compressor, barrel to the left and trigger up.
The trigger needs to be removed. I find it best to drift out the trigger pin with a drift then, while holding the trigger in position, carefully remove the drift, so releasing the trigger and its spring.
You now need a socket or other implement that can be used to hold the 15mm sleeve firm while you drift out the 2 cross pins that retain the outer and inner sleeves in the action. The pin towards the barrel is smaller in diameter and acts as a guide, the other pin is larger.
Now carefully release pressure on the spring and let the sleeves be pushed out. As the inner sleeve comes out it will bring the smaller 5mm ‘prod’ out (that you saw above) complete with spring. Also coming out will be another sleeve (the outer sleeve) that fits inside the main cylinder. Try to keep these bits in their original orientation ... I place my left hand underneath them as they come out under the preload pressure, which is not great, about 5cm. Note that the 15mm sleeve is formed from rolled sheet and has the join uppermost i.e. in line with the trigger slot. The uppermost part of the outer sleeve is cut away towards the stock.
Remove these bits. The 3 ball bearings are found in holes in the 15mm sleeve at the left end.
The prod will fall free ... a prod and a spring about 4cm long.
The mainspring, spring guide and piston can now slide out.
Service as appropriate. The ball bearings are standard cycle size. I have seen triggers work with only 2 bearings in place but do not recommend this.
Part 2, the rebuild, in the next thread.
Cheers, Phil
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