^^^^^
Have to agree, Fiddes are superb,i use all their products at work,supreme stripped pine has vertually no stain in it and can be buffed off straight away,whereas certain Mylands wax's(antique mahogany) work best when left over night.
Atb,woody.
i have used refined danish oil, you can get it from b&q with a stain in it already, i re done a bsa meteor stock looked fab when finished, but give it time to dry before you buff it up with very fine wire wool, then apply your last coat , how many coats is determined by how dark you want the finish to be ,
muzzy
The destination for this link has been shut down. Any chance of re-publishing it as I'm wnting to get my S-200 to look something like.
Thanks
M
I have done a couple of Beech stocks with black stain added to Danish Oil,both Rustins products. This picked out the fine grain.
The first coat of danish oil was thinned with white spirit applied then wiped off
The raised grain was taken down with a green scouring pad until it was as smooth as glass then three coats of danish oil applied with twenty four hours between coats.
I used Danish oil on all my walnut stocks as it gives a hardwearing finish that is easy to repair
You don't know what you've got till it's gone
hi there ive renovated a few beach stocks and i found the trick to getting a good finish with beach was in the sanding.
basically don't try to sand the old stain back too much because first of all you will never get all the old stain out of the wood grain and also you will get a patchy looking stock (not very nice).
but use the old stain to your advantage i.e. leave the old stain in the grain.
then re-stain (i use dark coloured stains)
then what happens is the wood grain will be twice as dark as the rest of the stock then finish with Danish oil.
which in most cases depending on the stock gives an almost walnut type of look.
great
I have heard about cold tea if you don't want to spend any money , never trye'd it my self i have a tin of wood stain i have had for about 20 years , it just keeps going , but always do a test bit first , and i always oil inset of varnish it soaks into the wood and gives a much better sheen .
cheers pal
i like that gun
This 3 part article seems to be very comprehensive from initial strip through to final finishing: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...shing___Part_I
Just tried the tea staining idea on my meteor stock. its a crap beech one, but now it looks quite ok. i just left the teabags in hot water for a while (this should help open up the pores in the wood) about 15 mins, and then rubbed them in. It gives the wood a lovely golden brown colour.
I will be doing the same on all my stocks now.
A.V Marochinni O/U 12 Gauge
Baikal S/B 12 Gauge
Air Arms S200 MK2 .177
I tried this link today and the web page(s) appear to have been shut down. I'm still interested in the topic though.
Mick
Yeah, has been dead for about a year.
A.V Marochinni O/U 12 Gauge
Baikal S/B 12 Gauge
Air Arms S200 MK2 .177
Just tried Black shoe polish tonight. 1 coat rubbed in well gives a nice stained colour, but also a water resistant finish (?) I tried this again, but found i couldnt get it any darker. So i heated the wood up first with a model aircraft heatgun and then rubbed the polish into the stock genourousely. This melted the polish to a thin enough texture so it seaped into the beech. Now i have a much darker stain.
I will try this aing tommorrow night with brown and grey on a different part of the stock.
Bearing in mind this gives a water resistant finish, will i still be able to finish it off with a oil coating?
ATVB Jacob
A.V Marochinni O/U 12 Gauge
Baikal S/B 12 Gauge
Air Arms S200 MK2 .177