I've an LP50 so can't adjust the stages independently. Like you, the first stage is relatively light allowing an early take up with a firm squeeze required to release the second stage.
Most precision shooters would say that the first stage should be heavier than this, so that when you take up the first stage the additional pressure to release the shot is minimal, and therefore you are less likely to snatch or pull the shot. I tried a gun set up like this and instantly improved my group - but that just told me I needed to concentrate more on the trigger and as a result I have managed to bring the LP50's group in. I was ready to buy another gun to get this adjustablity of the trigger (eg LP10), but I have decided I don't need to, I just need to understand the dynamics involved and to practice. A 'better trigger' might be a short cut to scoring a few extra points, but learning how to use the trigger properly will bring bigger rewards (assuming the trigger is not bad and it is just technique which needs improvement, as was my case with the LP50).
Regarding trigger weights - get a wire coat hanger, make a lead weight out of an old pellet tin and scrap pellets that just releases the trigger - then take the weight with the coat hanger to your local supermarket and weigh it in the grocery section. I've got a weight I've made which is about 520g and I set my gun up to take this with ease - then when I go through equipment control I know all will be OK, one less thing to worry about before a match.
McT