harricook will know and he goes to Bisley, come in Roy your needed again
Hi all
Having only been reading for years I seem to suddenly have lots of BP based questions!
My ROA has always had a small issue since I bought it. When the hammer is on half cock the cylinder will not freely turn clockwise as it should. It is possible to turn but has to have some pressure on it to click it past the small tab that rises from above the trigger group. Annoyingly it will turn much more easily anti-clockwise but obviously thats not much help for loading.
It seems the issue is that on half cock the tab stays slightly too proud of the frame. Not sure if this is a problem with the tab itself or with the half cock location. On pulling the hammer back to half cock, the hammer clicks and I can see that the tab is completely recessed so the cylinder turns freely but when released the hammer moves a fair few mm forwards so on half cock the tab contacts the cylinder enough to inhibit turning.
We're I not possessed of all the practical skills of a 9 month old child of two cousins I could probably sort it myself, but I am so I can't. Does anyone know of any decent gunsmiths around Surrey or at Bisley that know their way around the Old Army?
Thanks
harricook will know and he goes to Bisley, come in Roy your needed again
I have had a problem in the past, with rotating the cylinder on my ROA.
It turned out, it was the pawl spring, that had broken, this is a small spring, that can easily corrode, and snap.
To get to the pawl spring, dismantle the frame from the grip and trigger guard, by removing the grips, full cock the hammer, and insert a pin into the main spring rod, to take the spring pressure, then releasing the hammer. Remove the three screws around the trigger guard, and the two screws by the hammer that go into the frame, then separate the two parts.
On the left hand side of the frame, just above the screw hole, is a smaller hole, in which you should see a spring. This is the pawl spring, remove it, and check is clean, and intact, also remove the plunger behind the spring, I believe this is the pawl, and check its clean, and moves freely. Obviously if the spring is damaged it will need to be replaced.
Reassemble, the cylinder should rotate freely.
Thanks for the answers all, particualrly Wobbly 2 for taking the time.
I am, however a complete numpty when it comes to dissasembling anything and have a tendency to hear small 'pings' followed by watching tiny but vital parts describe parabolic arcs across the room towards bottomless holes in the floorboards so I'm not sure I'll improve the situation.
I'll think on it though and maybe grow a pair and give it a go helped by the steps on Wobbly 2's post and the Youtube clip from Ruger here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFFvPIJeYRU
For others reference theres also a reassembly and cleaning clips on Rugers Youtube channel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjzzEB1236g&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pi8aff3O5EM&feature=plcp
Last edited by pnuk; 10-06-2012 at 11:40 PM.
Whenever I take a pistol apart for the 1st time I always use some cheap see through freezer bags (The largest you can find)
Make a cut down the bottom of one side big enough to put your hand through & put the gun & tools in through the top opening.
It catches any escaping parts quite well while you disassemble the gun
I am quite certain that the argument you've already won in your head was entirely more satisfying to you than the one that is actually occurring.
Member of WR&PC,BASC & UBC
Good tip morph. Thanks to pnuk for posting the video clips. Wish id seen them before i stripped mine without guidence. Managed ok as its not rocket science but would have made things a bit easier knowing what to expect. Tim