im about to order this http://www.dx.com/p/300w-temperature...4#.U3fZACjLOX0
Yeah I already have done that, I didn't fancy putting old bullets covered with sand in the melting pot, what a mess, and youd have to fish out the copper jackets, no thanks...
In other news, As any of you may know, I got told I couldn't use my 12 gauge slug shooter (percussion musket) at my range as it's restricted to 45 caliber, but I was told by someone else that I can shoot it there because it's a smoothbore, and the ball isn't spun... Obviously a 12 gauge ball isn't going to exceed the velocity limits, it's not like I'm firing it from a cannon... Anyone shed some light as to what's allowed and what's not?
im about to order this http://www.dx.com/p/300w-temperature...4#.U3fZACjLOX0
"Men occasionally stumble on the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened" Winston Churchill
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only been casting a few years with Lee Pro 4 20 but it still works fine.
Main issue as said is with keeping the spout clear,the hole is only about 2mm.
Casting needs a patient and practical approach,somewhere between an art and science.
Stirring round the bottom with a pine dowel gets fine dross to rise to the top.
Just make sure that the wood is either very dry the first time or lower in slowly as any moisture will react badly and spit lead,very unfriendly.
If the range approval limits it to .45 cal, then a 12 bore is not allowed. Smooth or rifled has nothing to do with it and you will find that this is not mentioned on the range safety certificate. There will probably also be an energy limit, and it is likely that your musket will also exceed that. The cal and energy limits are there because of the construction of the range and its ability to both contain the shots, and remain intact to contain the next shot, and the 1000's after that.
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"Men occasionally stumble on the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened" Winston Churchill
http://planetairgun.com/index.php
I used my melting pot at the weekend, managed to get it pouring very well by stirring the lead, cleaning the nozzle and adding flux to it, and I emptied the pot completely, the next time I use it I want to put in some pure lead and make some revolver bullets.
But ive noticed a rather nasty crusty residue in the pot, its a light brown colour and doesnt come off, I presume this must be oxidised Tin in the pot, and does anybody know how to remove it?
- Tom
fine sand paper or a wire wheel on a dremel like tool, ive just cleaned out a friends lee melting pot the nozzle was completely blocked and i noticed a yellow powder in the bottom which turned out to be (later found out that sulphur is added to lead to help it flow better
"Men occasionally stumble on the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened" Winston Churchill
http://planetairgun.com/index.php