Maybe try injecting some kind of filler right to the bottom and shove a matchstick into the hole. Let it set up and then you should be able to screw straight back in nice and tight or pilot it with a 2mm bit if you think it would be too tight.
Gentlemen,
Could you recommend something to cure stripped wood screw holes in my BSA Standard stock? The rear trigger guard screw & the rear peep sight screw are both loose because their holes have just about stripped. I'm after something which will enable me to tighten them sufficiently then, at some later date, unscrew the trigger guard screw again when the rifle comes round for a service.
Thanks,
Glyn
Maybe try injecting some kind of filler right to the bottom and shove a matchstick into the hole. Let it set up and then you should be able to screw straight back in nice and tight or pilot it with a 2mm bit if you think it would be too tight.
Donald
Are they screwed directly into wood or through the wood into the metal action?
If wood, I would recommend drilling it out to say 5 mm and gluing a piece of wooden dowell in, then re drill and insert the screw. If it's into metal, tap it out and use a machine screw.
The Early Bird May Get The Worm, But It's The Second Mouse That Gets The Cheese !!
The screws go into the wood, Brooksy.
Thanks for the prompt suggestions chaps.
I might try them both, one for one hole & the other idea for the second hole & see which works out best in the long run.
Glyn
Something like this or similar two part filler?
http://www.diy.com/departments/ronse...g/36104_BQ.prd
ASM[/QUOTE]
I am a Man of La Northumberlandia, a true Knight and spend my days on my Quest (my duty nay privilege!) and fighting dragons and unbeatable foe, to right the unrightable wrongs, to bear with unbearable sorrow and dreaming my impossible dreams.
Although similar but not the same. I had screw holes stripped in my door (handle). From the internet I mixed wood glue and toilet paper until it was a thick paste and forced into the hole. I let it dry and put in the screw. It worked and the screws are still holding considering the handle get used everyday. Glue tends to be white so you may need to colour it match the wood. If it doesn't work just remove the glue/tissue mixture.
Drill out the minimum amount you need to get rid of any loose wood etc so you have a good straight sided round hole. Drill a piece of scrap with the same drill a couple of times. Whittle, cut sand shape a repair piece from good clean hardwood, try not to use teak, or other oily woods, they are harder to glue well. Make it 5mm or so longer than the hole. Use the holes in the scrap to trial fit the repair piece. It avoids straining the stock with oversize bits. Then cut a narrow groove in the repair piece from one end to the other to let air & glue out when the things pushed in if it's a blind hole it might push itself out unless you clamp it in. Then vacuum out all the dust in the hole in the stock, get all the dust off the repair plug which should be a close but not a tight fit. Use a 2 component slow cure epoxy adhesive ie Araldite follow the makers instructions. When mixed apply some inside the hole with a coctail stick or similar, to coat the interior surface, coat the repair bit too. Put the repair piece in with a slight twisting motion.wipe of the excess. Leave it for at least a few days. Trim to length, sand, pilot hole etc.as I say not the only way but without seeing it, it's a best guess, cheers
Guitar repair trick for strap holes is to glue cocktail sticks into the hole
I try to keep things as simple as possible.
I'd go with Thiisdonald on this, whittle a some matchsticks to tapered sharp points, so it looks like you are going to kill a load of miniature Vampire, & tap them into the hole with some PVA glue. Give it 24hrs to dry & sand flush.
You'll find they are quite happy behaving as nails & just keep on going, so don't get carried away with the tapping, & just fill the hole, don't knock in a few extras in for good luck.
I've used it a lot on loose door handles & such too, it works well.
As said above. if there is enough wood drill out drill it and plug with a dowel and glue preferably hard wood
You mus pilot drill the dowel to re-take the screws
Try this on a scrap bit of wood first this will give you an indication of what size pilot drill to use
Thank you everyone for your very helpful replies. The Gentlemen's Corner is a veritable mine of information.
Best wishes
Glyn
For a neater fix, drill out the hole for a plug from some scrap walnut.
Pilot drill the plug and cascamite into place that way there isn't exposed endgrain where there shouldn't be and it will take finish properly to be blended in
A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.
Thanks for that RichardH. Actually there's no need to conceal the repaired holes as they're both concealed, one under the rear of the trigger guard & the other one is under the base plate of the sight. It's a suggestion to keep in mind for the future, should I need it. By the way, I find the Axminster web site fascinating. They have some ingenious tools for obscure jobs.
Cheers
Glyn