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Thread: Airgun lubrication- alternative sources and mixing your own

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by evert View Post
    Many people swear by CV joint grease, but I find it to be a bit too thin for lubricating pistons. Hence the idea of adding graphite powder to get it more tacky/sticky, but I have not tried it yet. Where do you get the open gear grease?
    The stuff that I've been using is the Molyslip OGL from Drake Tooling in the UK. Purchased a few years ago. When I looked recently I couldn't see it listed anymore, but there were what looked to be direct replacements from Molyslip but under different names. I seem to also remember seeing how the smaller quantities of the AS60 were no longer listed. Well worth perusing the various Molyslip products.
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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post
    I used to work for a company called Würth, this is where I learnt a lot about different lubes and their properties.
    Get yourself a can of their spray chain grease, it is solvented so goes on as a liquid, spreading evenly. The solvent then evaporates leaving a very sticky, high quality white grease. Great for springs!
    It has been said in the past that the sticky stuff applied to the V-Mach spring and guides when you bought a kit was some type of spray on chain lube, Nick, so makes perfect sense.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by evert View Post
    Thanks! I have seen the 30 Weight non-detergent referred to several places, but it is a bit difficult to locate a source. The detergent is supposedly harmful for seals. If i understand correctly, the non-detergent oil is suitable for older and simpler engines where harmful particles should not be suspended in the oil. One possible source may perhaps be 30-Weight lawnmower oil?
    Quote Originally Posted by evert View Post
    Thanks! Sounds like a great suggestion, perhaps it will work for vibration dampening on loose steel guides too?

    (I've considered trying the Bum-slide for piston lubrication when I run out of the ARH Moly paste, as shipping from the UK is still reasonable )
    Yes to the lawnmower oil, evert.

    And the Bum-Slide is excellent.
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    I use this on springs :- https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-...se-TY6333.html

    £1.80 a tube.



    All the best Mick
    I seem to remember you showing me your tube (wot?) once at Quigley Hollow, Mick?
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    I am now into shotguns rather than springer airguns, but I have just discovered SCHMEIRFIX LIQUI MOLY. A German product and its marvellous stuff. Very sticky and slick. Well worth a try. Obtainable on that auction site.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mzee View Post
    A friend is restoring a 1928 Hillman 12 which has been in his family since new and has become a family heirloom. After he'd rebuilt the engine,he gave me a jam jar of assembly oil which he thought I might be able to use when working on some of my old air guns. This stuff looks like & has the consistency of golden syrup & is very sticky. Apparently he coated the engine parts in it so they would be lubricated as the engine started up & wouldn't run dry until the sump oil started to circulate. I've found it works very well on the loading taps on my old BSAs,Webley Mk3 & other guns & cures any slight leakage. I also had success with some bicycle chain lube called White Lightning, some sort of waxy lubricant which evaporates to leave a coating on mainsprings. It sounds rather like the German stuff Tinbum mentions except it isn't sticky. I put a drop or two of chainsaw oil into the appropriate hole on my Webley pistols every so often.
    I've often looked at stuff on the Liqui Moly site and I think there are a few products there that may be of use.

    Plus Morris Lubricants (amongst others) for the Assembly Oil.
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  6. #21
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    Hello to All,

    For 'Krytox' like per-fluorinated greases, the easiest to come by in the UK is FinishLine Extreme Fluro, available from bicycle shops.

    Krytox oils & greases can be bought in the UK from GBRTech - make queries to:

    info@gbrtech.co.uk

    Similar per-fluorinated oils & greases, and solid lubes (sub-micron moly, tungsten disulphide, & graphite) and other lubes can be bought from Microlubrol in the USA :

    http://www.microlubrol.com/index.aspx

    I have bought from both GBRTech & Microlubrol, and the service is excellent.

    Have fun

    Best regards

    Russ

  7. #22
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    Re the white teflon bicycle grease ... I bought some a couple of years ago (Finish Line) but have not used it because I was told it could promote dieseling. I tried to find a Safety Information Sheet for it but failed to get one that gave all details. So I continued using Moly CV joint grease. I guess you have not had any problems?
    Cheers, Phil
    Last edited by Phil Russell; 04-01-2021 at 08:17 AM.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
    I seem to remember you showing me your tube (wot?) once at Quigley Hollow, Mick?
    Way too much information there lads. Just wondering what ye get up to when shooting.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatMan View Post
    Hello to All,

    For 'Krytox' like per-fluorinated greases, the easiest to come by in the UK is FinishLine Extreme Fluro, available from bicycle shops.

    Krytox oils & greases can be bought in the UK from GBRTech - make queries to:

    info@gbrtech.co.uk

    Similar per-fluorinated oils & greases, and solid lubes (sub-micron moly, tungsten disulphide, & graphite) and other lubes can be bought from Microlubrol in the USA :

    http://www.microlubrol.com/index.aspx

    I have bought from both GBRTech & Microlubrol, and the service is excellent.

    Have fun

    Best regards

    Russ
    Thanks!
    What are you using these for? Spring lubrication or seal lubrication?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    Re the white teflon bicycle grease ... I bought some a couple of years ago (Finish Line) but have not used it because I was told it could promote dieseling. I tried to find a Safety Information Sheet for it but failed to get one that gave all details. So I continued using Moly CV joint grease. I guess you have not had any problems?
    Cheers, Phil
    I've only used it on springs/guides, and not the outside of the piston. Used in small amounts it has been great on well fit delrin guides in a TX and the HW97 and 77k.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
    Yes to the lawnmower oil, evert.

    And the Bum-Slide is excellent.
    Thanks! And thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, some very interesting info is turning up here now!

  12. #27
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    evert,

    The innards of my rifles are run virtually dry.

    The spring & piston (and if present, the outside of the compression cylinder) are sprayed with three (3) or four (4) light coats of a dry moly spray - I use Ambersil, and leave thirty (30) minutes between coats

    I allow the dry film film to cure overnight, then burnish with 75% graphite/25% Tungsten disulphide powder on a chamois leather.

    The piston seal and spring guide are then burnished with the graphite mixture - turns them a cool silver colour.

    The inside of the compression chamber / cylinder is also burnished with the graphite mix

    A very small wipe of Krytox grease is smeared around the outer of the seal, and on the guide.

    A wipe of grease is then applier to the end of the top-hat, and the base of the spring guide, and powerplant assembled.

    Trigger sears are given a light coat of extreme pressure grease at their pressure points.

    Have fun

    Best regards

    Russ




  13. #28
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    chamois leather

    Quote Originally Posted by PhatMan View Post
    evert,

    The innards of my rifles are run virtually dry.

    The spring & piston (and if present, the outside of the compression cylinder) are sprayed with three (3) or four (4) light coats of a dry moly spray - I use Ambersil, and leave thirty (30) minutes between coats

    I allow the dry film film to cure overnight, then burnish with 75% graphite/25% Tungsten disulphide powder on a chamois leather.

    The piston seal and spring guide are then burnished with the graphite mixture - turns them a cool silver colour.

    The inside of the compression chamber / cylinder is also burnished with the graphite mix

    A very small wipe of Krytox grease is smeared around the outer of the seal, and on the guide.

    A wipe of grease is then applier to the end of the top-hat, and the base of the spring guide, and powerplant assembled.

    Trigger sears are given a light coat of extreme pressure grease at their pressure points.

    Have fun

    Best regards

    Russ



    Why does the chamois leather come into it

  14. #29
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    gunstock,

    The chamois leather is used to rub/burnish the lube powder onto the relevant objects.

    It is much better at doing this than is a piece of cloth.

    Have fun

    Best regards

    Russ

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatMan View Post
    The innards of my rifles are run virtually dry.....
    Now that is an interesting option! I guess you have a good guide/spring fit?
    Looks like you are shooting a quite heavily modified setup there.
    How does the dry moly/graphite mix last? does it wear or move fast, or can you shoot the gun without servicing for a long time?

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