i think acetone works well
How do I remove oil from a heavily contaminated beech stock? I have heard that soaking in detergent and water works. What are the details. Thanks in anticipation for any replies. Regards Daveh
If you dont do it today, you might not be able to do it tomorrow!
i think acetone works well
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
I can’t speak from experience but I would think you need a solvent (acetone, meths?) to get the oil moving and a carrier to take the solvent/oil mix out (cat litter might do it, or diatomaceous earth). Test in a hidden area.
Dunno if you could ever get it all out though.
Morally flawed
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
As above. Wash/wipe once heated every few hours to remove the oil thats got to the surface. Basically slowly sweating it out, and taking away any oil immediately that has got to the surface, all ready for more to sweat.
Try and rush the process and the wood will "die" and dry. Its all about keeping the wood fibres "happy", breathing.
Might take a week. Basically the same process but opposite as when applying oil.
I had this issue with an HW35 stock, so much linseed oil that the smell was making me feel physically sick and it was actually greasy to the touch.
Initially I used industrial strength paint stripper and a loads of plastic scourers to remove the residue. I followed this with 'Cillit Bang' kitchen degreaser and loads of elbow grease. I eventually removed virtually all the oil and was able to refinish how I prefer with water based colour followed by at least 12 coats of laquer.
It depends how bad it is; I’ve just had a bit of a mare with a beech 77 stock that I tried boiled linseed oil on. I gave it a coat last week then left it to dry as we were away over the weekend, upon return it was still horribly tacky and quite unpleasant to the touch. I cut it back with meths and used scotchbrite on the worst bits and left it overnight, this morning I found it was ok to start work on again and now I’m about 80% of the way through waxing it.
Regards,
Dave.
Hopefully this info has been useful .
Maybe we will never know .
And in with the other ignored he goes .
Maybe he will return one day with the result...Anyways I am grateful for some of the suggestions provided, will try them on some of my Oil invested grips & stock. The dark spots might respond to the treatment.
Collection: vintage air pistols & air rifles / vintage air gun accessories
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Just received a belated warning from a member on here. Soaking in acetone may crack the stock. That’s what happened to mine. Luckily the stock belongs to a scrapped .410 ,and not any of my air rifles.If you have an oil soaked stock try something gentler first . Be warned.
If you dont do it today, you might not be able to do it tomorrow!
Final outcome. I understand that acetone removes ALL moisture from wood and that’s what causes it to crack. All is not lost I wrapped the stock in damp newspaper and left it for a few days and the cracks have closed up and are not now visible. I don’t think that this would work with old cracks but who knows, someone with a stock with old cracks may try this and tell us what happens. Regards Daveh
If you dont do it today, you might not be able to do it tomorrow!
I've found in the past the best thing to remove oil from most surfaces even wood is simply washing up liquid. Not the fancy stuff the really really cheap stuff thats about 50p per bottle with no added extras. Proper bargain no frills type. Even works getting engine oil off drives when the expestuff designed to do this leaves residue. Absolutely must be the cheapest stuff tho on neat then washed off With warm water afterwards. Couple of times and you'll definitely see results.
I used to use Oxalic acid crystals dissolved in warm water, Put the stock in a bath then weight it down, It brough the oil out lovely!!
I've ran out of the stuff now but it can be had from fleabay
John
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as above but its a bit since i had to do a stock