I found them in a shop in Essex in gunmart ad. Can't remember the name, will try to find out later.
Ah the Toys ;-
Tommygun .22LR, Ruger 10/22, Erma M1 .22WMR, Rossi 92 .357Magnum, Tikka T3 Tactical .308Win,
1858 & 1873 BPR's, Browning Gold 12G, Winchester 9410, Air Rifles, Crossbows & Longbow.
With plastic cases a 10mm punch is giving me wads which are about .403" and a re a perfect fit with negligible force needed to place down the hull. A 11mm punch is giving wads which are about .435" and need to be pressed down. I'm assuming the interference fit will provide a better seal or is this too much?
When I do find a gun it will be reamed out to Improved/Cylinder choke.
Tried a selection through a full choke .410 today. 10mm wads were fine but 11mm too much for full choke. |The 1/2 oz /12.5 gram load patterned at 20 yards nicely enough but 10 grains of Lovex SO60 was not enough wumph to penetrate at that range. However it made little more noise that an unsilenced 12ft/lb springer.
10mm punch is to small and 11mm is to big
I use a top card punch that I got off e bay its just the right size
I had another little session today with my mates full choke .410 .... this time with two loads:
One with 12 grains of powder, 11mm over powder and over shot cards but with 10mm wads.
The other with the same but with the first (driving) wad at 11mm and the rest 10mm.
The load with 10 mm wads patterned excellently, better that the load with the 11mm driver and also better than a factory Eley 3" cartridge. However 12 grains still lacked decent shot penetration so I will up it again. I should have my Belgium folder by Easter and will start fire forming brass. Following quadruple cross checking I found that a 22lr case holds 4 grains of my current powder so this has been added to my diy kit as a handy dipper. I shall pick up a .45 and 9mm case and see if they are usefull for shot or powder measuring.
Last edited by Ranyhyn; 29-03-2015 at 10:29 PM. Reason: add
Just thought I'd resurrect this thread as I'm also interested in reloading some .410.
Like you (were) I dont own a .410 yet and in also looking at english and belgian doubles and singles... there are some real nice ones out there.
My question, if anyone is still around to answer it, is, what is the process for crimping or sealing .303 brass?
Donald
You use glue or waterglass to seal them.
One consideration if doing this is the availability of primers, I.e. do you have a calibre on your FAC that would allow you to buy the correct primers for the brass you are using?
I looked at doing it before I had Centre fire on my FAC and it was too much of a faff when .410 hulls were plentiful and free.
I got rid of my little belgium folder a year or two back to fund something else I wanted. Then the ratties appeared in my garden again so I eventually got a long barrelled single on an auction site. Then a mate gave me a converted rook rifle in 2".410. Then a mate of mine in the club popped his clogs last week and I have ended up with all his guns (pictured) on a three month ticket to dispose of on behalf of his family.
In amongst the collection was the 410 which I sold him a couple of years back and another little Canadian (cooey) single barrelled ejector so now I have 4. It's a shame you're so far away as at least two will be going cheap.
I had a play with brass cases a while ago but found them to be more trouble than they were worth. Now I load cut down plastic with around half an ounce of #9 and a very light charge. This bowls over the ratties at ten yards with hardly a pop, especially through the mod.
[I]DesG
Domani e troppo tardi
I recently ended up helping a mate to reload 410 for his hushpower.
He was getting through lots of carts clay shooting - large family - lots of kids etc.
I figured out how to reload on a single stage press using a combination of various Lee dies suitably modified.
All roll crimped using a pillar drill.
A 3 inch case will reload a couple of times if you can deal with trimming a couple of mm off the mouths.
Two of us could make about 150 an hour.
He did have 3 bucketful's of fired cases!
What is the process of using a drill press to crimp?
I watched a lad on youtube who had made a nice little copy of a lee loadall for his. 410
From primed it was literally about 15-20 seconds to complete. Very impressive.
Des, PM with a list if what you are getting rid of, I might be able to help! I like the look of those top to .410 and that pump as well.
Donald
Some folk say you need pillar drill, but I use a hand drill and a little clamp to hold the cart. Consistency is achieved by careful attention to shot and component column length, which leaves just the right amount of cart freeboard. Pop a shot over card onto of the shot, add the roll crimp tool to the chuck of the drill and spin her down to the desired finish.
Drill mounted roll crimp tools work best when warm, which can be done by pre warming with the hair drier, once your up and running with the tool it stays warm through use. When roll crimping I usually do the lot in a single go, pre heating the tool means my job lot roll crimps turns out pretty consistent.
I may have some brass you can talk me out of, .410 brass that accepts shotgun primers, if you can't get them from this link to Rocky Mountain Cartridge in the US, although I bought mine from a member on here:
https://www.rockymountaincartridge.com/products.htm
Price list
https://www.rockymountaincartridge.c...oad%20Kits.pdf