cant tell from the pics.. dos the smaller metal cylinder get accelerated by the hammer spring, then arrested allowing the outer hammer to continue? im trying to work out if you are loosing too much hammer spring energy moving mass...
Today I tested my slingshot hammer for my Brocock Contour.
Whilst it cocks and releases it won't open the valve.
I assume the slingshot needs to be heavier.
The original hammer had 10mm of travel which I duplicated. I then increased this to 15mm. To increase the stroke I have to reduce the length, and hence the mass of the slingshot.
Any pointers?
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cant tell from the pics.. dos the smaller metal cylinder get accelerated by the hammer spring, then arrested allowing the outer hammer to continue? im trying to work out if you are loosing too much hammer spring energy moving mass...
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
The outside is a cage which holds the slingshot. The valve protrudes by a millimetre so the slingshot needs to sit inside the cage.
The spring holds the slingshot to the rear of the cage during cocking and sits inside the hammer spring guide (the white bit).
It's the closest I could make to the original hammer
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ahh OK, now I see, sorry... so if the hammer (cage) is quite heavy, it's going to be taking a lot of spring energy, which isn't purposeful in terms of providing energy to hitting the valve (which is only opened by the slighshot piece). What is the weight of the cage and also the weight of the slingshot part ? That'll probably answer the question...
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
PS some other minor design improvements to consider... (but no point until the cage mass issue is sorted)
- ensure the spring that holds the slingshot back is as light as possible
- the central bolt that passes through the small hole inside the hammer/cage/body should be smooth at that section
PPS A Ti cage might work, ali will wear
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
I would suggest that the actual hammer part is not heavy enough to retain enough inertia to open the valve or that the spring is not strong enough to provide enought energy, when i make SSGs i ofter need to increase the hammer spring strength to provide the extra innertia to still open the valve after the preload is removed.
Having had good look on how I can improve things, an SSG would be the easier route.
I hope to make one internal to the hammer,
fixed at the rear.
Needs a bit of thought first.
Thank you for your help.
Repariere nicht, was nicht kaputtist.
I've done a few SSGs, i stuck up a post on here a while ago. The telescopic spring guide version is anways an option, except for extremely short hammer strokes, and fits inside. I don't think external devices are a realistic option due to UK power laws, unless on bullpups where external to the action is still internal to the stock (whcih I did on my Kral and JKHan)
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
I have an external SSG adjustment on my R10 (only way to do it), don't think it's a problem as it not a problem having anti tamper removed from air guns,
Looking atg that hammer you could do something similar to my Kral hammer if you have a lathe.
R10
Kral
Thank you for the pictures.
Look like a mk2 is on the cards.
Repariere nicht, was nicht kaputtist.
Some ideas for you.
How are your results with the ssg Neil
Ive made a few for various pcps Ive owned and just now been tinkering with a kral, Ive found the best float to be 0.5 to 1.00mm any bigger and the fps spread rises and Ive never matched the consistency of a well set up H’spring and not always gained shots either, get it right and they do work well
Chris
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nice Neil. That's the design I call "telescopic spring guide" as it's completely internal. There's probably another name out there...
The noise reduction these give is really impressive.
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.