In my opinion Titans are too harsh for the majority of springers.
I'd start with one of the HW 3.1 wire springs and go from there.
I have a .177cal HW95 that is fitted with a Titan No.8 mainspring and it keeps going hot no matter how much I chop the spring and/or collapse coils. The gun has its standard original HW piston seal fitted, well sized and freely sliding in the comp tube. running with virtually no lube, it does not diesel (just the lightest smear of moly grease on the piston skirt and guides, non on the spring. Lock time is very quick and snappy.
The Titan spring started out at 295mm long and I have chopped it and collapsed coils down to a free length of 192mm (pic here) it has 20 active coils with 2 fully collapsed coils at either end. I have had to pack the spring guide with spacers up to about 4mm of preload...this results in a bouncy shot cycle because of the limited preload, any more and it just runs way too hot again!. I could still cut the collapsed coils off and glean another 12mm off this spring without affecting power (if I pack it back out with slip washers).
Tested at the club this morning it peaked at 805fps with AA fields (4.51) - this was tested on one of those phone chronos...not sure what the make was.
Tested it again when I got home on an F1 chrony before taking it apart...again!
782
785
784
782
783
So, the consistency is good but the firing cycle is still bouncy/slammy...
Guys...help me out here please because I have had this 95 apart a dozen times or more chasing this problem and it is pissing me off...is the Titan N0.8 too much spring for the gun?
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In my opinion Titans are too harsh for the majority of springers.
I'd start with one of the HW 3.1 wire springs and go from there.
B.A.S.C. member
Ditch the titan and ask Venomman for a VMach spring for a 95. Mach 1.5
yup.. you need 3.0 or 3.1mm wire
a titan #8 is apparently 3.3mm = way too stiff
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
Thanks guys, I know I can swap it out for a softer spring but would prefer to work with what I have for the time being.
does the weight of the spring add to the potential power and piston weight?
if I chop the dead coils off and perhaps chop/collapse another coil, thus further reducing spring weight and stored energy, will this reduce felt recoil?… obviously I’ll have to pack out the spring guide to get some preload back on the spring… trying to find a balance between spring potential and preload to reduce power and the snappy shot cycle…does this make sense?
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I was always led to believe that collapsed coils act like piston weights and can effect the power, I'd remove the end that sits in the piston and collapse a single coil, are you using any delrin top hats or slip washers?
Pete
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
That spring is too stiff, adding dead preload to a short spring increases stiffness. In this case it is also increasing piston bounce and cocking effort.
The only real answer is to use the right spring, 3.1mm wire is ideal, then reduce the spring to power so you have no dead preload.
As stated in op, the spring has been chopped from 295mm down to a free length of 192mm long inc two dead/collapsed coils at either end…it has 4mm preload with spacers and slip washer on the guide…goes hot with any more preload withe the spring in its current configuration.
yes, aftermarket plastic top hat, spring guide and spacers…delrin I think.
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Yep! And just to add - shortening a spring makes it effectively stiffer....
Keeping on shortening it isn't going to help.
Last edited by Frog; 16-01-2022 at 05:01 PM.
Why does dead spring space increase piston bounce? Is the weight of the spring adding to felt recoil?…And are you saying it is better to have no preload?…in the current set up if I add two brass slip washer in the piston end to increase preload to about 8mm, the fps increases to around 825!… it,d doing my crust in…
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It's pretty simple really, else I wouldn't understand it.
If you have a long, soft spring with preload, the piston is under tension at the end of the stroke.
If you have a short, stiff spring with little or no preload, it has less tension on the piston at the end of the stroke and it bounces back up the comp tube.
And again
And again
People save about £1 buying an aftermarket spring, I really don't think it's money worth saving
Yes, yes and yes.
By trying to persist and making the too stiff spring work, you'll keep going round in circles and then end up doing what you would have been better doing all along.
The V-Mach spring (they're calibre specific too) works very well in the 95.
Another spring that impresses in the 95 is the SFS one.
If "re-purposing" other springs, I'd very, very much like to give a TX200 Mark III spring a try in one.
And some of the thinner wired Titans, originally marketed as being for different models, will also be fine.
Having a quick look at some of the specifications of different springs on the Mainspring Data Thread in the Useful Section may help.
Hope you get sorted.
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