the grub screw is a very good idea Mick
Yes completely correct, Ped.
I did think of that, but that can be overcome by having the correct length grub screw in your toolbox.
In doing it that way you also wouldn't have to disturb the lock nuts too much on your adjuster bolts.
I've not had a chance to look this morning but I also wondered if hex head bolts instead of cap heads to hold the cage on could also be an option ?
All the best Mick
the grub screw is a very good idea Mick
the next batch of trigger frames i make i'm going to look at beefing up the area they crack across even more than the last ones
handy to have spares though as a few are after them at present
I've just repaired the broken one that came with mine as a spare, the replacement made by Ped is exellent btw & with & the radius left at the angle where they crack stronger too. Easy to avoid damage by cocking the hammer while tightning the fixing bolts but that knowledge needs to be spread to prevent this happening more often.
Yes. The side grubscrew should never be tightened more than a very loose finger tight to avoid crushing the thread on the spring adjuster and jamming the lot up. Just enough to stop movement of the adjuster while its cap is being replaced. It sounds like thats what has happened to yours
A very handy thread as I have an FN19 with a target trigger to reseal someday.
WANTED: Next weeks winning lottery numbers :-)
i make them from billet ally the originals are made from a cast type ally of spurious quality
as to other materials steel or stainless would take much lomger to make and hammer my cutters as i have no coolant feeds on the machines now (they were 3 phase originally )
if installed correctly they don't break
i am looking at making repair clamps that will allow damaged blocks to be used or getting the lugs tig welded back on then re machined so at some point i'll be looking for old broken ones to try different ideas on