Enjoying my BSA

[Mr Pusk]

I am a bit anxious to unscrew the barrel assy, but it probably has to be done.

My next Light Pattern will be a "very good" one, I now sort of know what to look out for...

What kind of Loctite would you use to put it back together?
I was thinking about the blue variant, which should seal fine? Red might be better, but if the cylinder needs to be removed in the future, it will cause a headache.

I had exactly the same problem re the cylinder/tap connection as you with a Webley Mark 3 about 18 months ago. I followed the instructions elsewhere on this forum for fixing a "porous breech" problem on an HW35, using Loctite 290. I applied it using a disposable syringe with a very long blunt needle, both bought online from a well-known retailer. The long needle made the stuff easy to apply. Left it a day or so to set. Touch wood, no problems so far.

[Binners]

For my own knowledge, may I ask how you make the distinction between a Light Pattern rear sight, and a MK1 Airsporter/Cadet Major one?

The proper Light/Standard rear sights over hang the barrel and have solid round height adjustment screws. The Mk1 and CM have a hollow screw with centre pin.
The later (like yours) is nicer, in my opinion

[Binners]

[Robert j]

No loctite between breech and cylinder..better use 5 min. epoxy after a good cleaning.

[torrens]

I rebuilt a BSA Light model some years ago and used whatever Locktite was handy..maybe red. The main thing is that you will have sealed any leakiness, also with disassembly it’s easy to inspect the cylinder and polish out scratches. If it shoots nicely and you don’t mind the oil seepage maybe leave it as it is?
I think “Johnbaz” has some nice posts on here or Vintage Airguns about repairing and rebuilding prewar BSAs.

[jirushi]

Thank you gents for all the advice.

Thank you Binners for the explanation and photos of the different rear sights.

I have bought a strap wrench and will try to remove the cylinder from the breech/barrel assy next week. Hopefully it won't be to hard.

[jirushi]

This little bit of oil sweating from the bottom of the joint between cylinder and breech is raising phylosofiphal questions.

I shot the gun a lot over the weekend, after removing all oil from the joint, and after about 20 shots a tiny bit of oil reappeared. I cannot feel any air coming out of that area during the shots.
Groups were fine.

I did 40 shots over the chrony, and consistency is good, with the exception of 3 low velocity readings.
Average of 192 m/s; 630 ft/s; 6.2 ft/lbs (7.0 gr RWS).

The low readings were 584, 574 and 610 ft/s (I checked whether I had closed the tap correctly: positive).
To show a typical succession of shots from this testing session:
630, 630, 623, 636, 633 ft/s

​Is the best the enemy of the good in this case?

As in, should I perhaps leave the gun alone, in order to prevent problems with getting the cylinder off and creating a better seal?

I am in doubt...

[harvey_s]

To the best of my knowledge 'red' Loctite isn't for threaded parts - it's bearing (or similar) retainer.
Threaded Loctite retainers are:
Purple - low strength & easy disassembly.
Blue - medium strength, disassembly possible without heat.
Green - studlock for permanent fixture, disassembly possible with heat.

The green studlock would be my choice.

[torrens]

Thanks for the clarification harvey s, it might have been green Locktite ….I used it more often when I ran British motorbikes ! I suppose using soft solder as originally done is an option but there’s a risk of surplus inside the cylinder.

[jirushi]

From the Henkel website, the manufacturer of Loctite:
What is red Loctite used for?
Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™
Product Overview. Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed to lock and seal threaded fasteners permanently and prevent loosening from vibration.

I use it sometimes. For instance to secure a wobbly rear sight on my BSA. It won't move anymore
I have blue Loctite which will secure screws, which can then still be removed with normal tools and without heat. I use it on trigger guard and tap plate screws.
I also have green Loctite, which I use to secure silencer adapters on barrels (for instance on my Titan Manitou).
It is a bit confusing when you look at all the different Loctite numbers though. There are lots and lots of types.

[jirushi]

My OCD made me take the cylinder off the breech.
I have to make my beloved Light Pattern as good as possible. I hope it will work out.

[jirushi]

Next I will have to remove the solder from the threads, and put the parts back together with Loctite 586.
Ed advised me that this is what Air Arms also use to make an airtight seal between cylinder and breech.

[Lakey]

Now would be a very very good time to deep clean the barrel


Lakey

[jirushi]

Now would be a very very good time to deep clean the barrel


Lakey

Cheers Lakey.
That was a good idea. This was the first pull through.
Now nice and clean.

[Lakey]

The pull through will get the loose surface muck out, but a bore cleaner and phosphor bronze brush will be needed to get the long term build up off the rifling. bear in mind it will have probably built up slowly after 100 years of use. The cleaner the bore is, the more accurate the gun should be.

Good start though

Lakey