Prosport shroud removal/bluing

[thechemist]

Many moons ago my new prosport barrel shroud accidently got grazed on a brick wall (don't ask!). Being someone who really doesn't like scratches I got hold of a replacement barrel shroud but never bothered attempting to remove the old one. After recently taking up the hobby again I discovered the joys of the Birchwood Casey bluing pen which worked incredibly well to remove minor scratches, except of course the grazed area. So out came the various grit papers down to 1200 to give a nice smooth clean metal surface. the Brchwood casey proved to be pretty useless on the area of new bare metal. Tried Phillips bluing paste too, slightly better but doesn't blend in with the rest of bluing. Got some Permablue paste on order to try next. I'm increasingly thinking the shroud now needs replacing with the immaculate one I purchased years ago, but I am put off by the use of blowtorches/paint stripper guns to get the shroud off which will almost certainly melt the baffles. Ideas anyone? Try more bluing or just replace the thing? or any gunsmiths in East Midlands thath can do this before sending off to Air Arms?
Any thoughts appreciated. TIA

[angrybear]

Well I've used perma-blue with pretty good results but it works better if you allow the bare metal to get a bit of very light surface rust, and once blued cover it with 'Barricade' to protect it.

As for the shroud, scuffs are part & parcel of the life story of the gun,
I'd keep the old one on and only fit the new one if the gun was going up for sale.

[Mark D]

Get Paul Chell to do it, never seen better finishing and blacking.

He is in Leicester

[Shed tuner]

I'd keep the old one on and only fit the new one if the gun was going up for sale.

ditto.

You shouldn't melt the baffles removing the old one either.. it doesn't need that much heat... it's more of a soak than high temps

[thechemist]

Well I've used perma-blue with pretty good results but it works better if you allow the bare metal to get a bit of very light surface rust, and once blued cover it with 'Barricade' to protect it.

As for the shroud, scuffs are part & parcel of the life story of the gun,
I'd keep the old one on and only fit the new one if the gun was going up for sale.

Yes you are are right the perma-blue is much better. I've only done half the shroud however as it has the Bisley sling attachment halfway up (the graze was about an inch from the barrel end). I'm still minded to change the shroud however at some stage as I'm a clumsy so and so and the hot blueing is way more durable than cold bluing.

[angrybear]

Surely if you're clumsy, that's even more reason to stick with the already marked one, rather than risk damage to the pristine one

[ToniD]

When using Perma-Blue does it matter what oil you use, mineral or vegetable? Only the vegetable oil is cheaper at the supermarket
Seriously though, does it matter?

Toni

[robthedog]

Paul Short removed the shroud on my tx200, when he changed the barrel from .22 to .25, then put it back on, looks just fine

[ToniD]

Answering my own question, I found a video where the chap used Canola oil. So veg oil is OK.

[look no hands]

I've not found any of the cold blue kits any good, I replaced the shroud on my early Prosport and ended up cutting it off, no amount of heat would shift it, it moved a bit but just wouldn't slide off, I bought new baffles for it.

[AndrewE]

If its just a barrel or a shroud don't waste your time. Get it hot blacked properly it costs about £20