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Thread: Pillar drill help on Kral Knight in Devon

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    warwick
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    284

    thanks

    well done Andrew E. its great too have guys like you on the forum who will help when its needed.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
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    1,608
    Quote Originally Posted by billywhizz1 View Post
    well done Andrew E. its great too have guys like you on the forum who will help when its needed.

    Absolutely guns nowadays seem to either be to low or to high but having skilled engineers able and happy to assist is fantastic.

    Knowledge and skill are invaluable to our sport, looking forward to getting things sorted and enjoying a day of shooting when it's done 🤞

    Atb

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    North Wales
    Posts
    3,394
    Interesting read, thanks. Had a look at one running too close to limit. Taking coils off hammer spring eventually got it down.
    The rear trigger pivot threads were M7 with helicoil reducing to the required M6. Below that the brass anti tamper was 6mm but not threaded.
    Just wonder if your variable TP is working OK.
    Oops! ignore me. It was a Puncher.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Melton Mowbray
    Posts
    2,601
    Most of the krals a Puncher.
    Kral Puncher Breaker Maxi
    Kral Puncher Breaker NP-02

    The block is the same.
    Different bottle adaptors and bits and pieces.

    On Krals the anti tamper was a lead slug, then a brass disc held in place with a helicoil and now a steel shearoff screw.
    Using a threaded rod with a hole down the middle to centre a drill is the best way to drill these. Removing them still requires a way of removing the screw.
    Down a rabbit hole as previous post.
    Repariere nicht, was nicht kaputtist.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,608
    Hi Neil54

    Yes typically mine was the steel shear version and it is very difficult to drill out without the proper equipment. The back one on mine near the trigger release is out now, thanks to Andy and his drill guide.

    Unfortunately there are another 2 to remove to alter the TP, there is a power adjuster also but this doesn't appear to affect the power much, going from about 4/5ftlb to 8ftlb I'm guessing, it's like the older RWS scimitar power adjuster etc.

    To get the other two anti tampers out to get the bottle and valve access, really requires a pillar drill, hence my request.

    So the journey continues, also the mags are a really really poor fit, they are just too tight for the block, I had to sand the mags down to get them to fit.

    It's odd workmanship on this value of gun, it seems accurate for the amount of shots I've put through it, and very consistent, but just no power. However it sits well in the shoulder, otherwise I'd have given up on this much sooner.

    Hopefully with Andy's help it'll come good and it'll be a great addition, but it's a toothless tiger at present.

    Atb

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Location
    Camberley
    Posts
    107

    See youtube

    There is a good YouTube video showing how to do this with a left handed drill bit, a vice and a hand drill.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,608
    Hi thanks for that, I've seen a couple of vids, one had the same issue I have with the steel shear. He also found it difficult but if you have a link, it'll be appreciated.

    I used a good drill bit given by Andy and the mounting disk and it took almost 2 hrs to drill out, it was like hardened steel, and the bit didn't cut in very fast at all.

    The reverse drill bits I've tried myself and they didn't cut into it by electric drill, so if this person did it by hand I'd be impressed how they got the drill to bite and reverse it out, as I think they are also glued in too, especially when it's a steal shear.

    But I'm no machinist nor mechanic in that way. Most jobs i can do, but I don't have a lot of tools for this work, only impact drivers and standard electric drills.

    Atb

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    46
    The valve on my jumbo had a 2mm top port and a large front port it was ample to make power may need a stronger hammer spring or some washers it would need drilling out if you want to fit a reg

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,608
    Just a quick update on this difficultly with the Kral Knight. Andy took the gun in and did some work on it, drilling out all the ports to just over 4mm and it's just about doing 11+ft/lb. We found that the hammer spring was weak and at full compression could not produce a decent power. So the hammer adjuster cannot be wound in anymore to adjust the power. He had a temporary one made up and is working fine.

    Now its at 10.5-11ft/lb which is more than enough, but fine tuning would be difficult on this airgun without adding a regulator. Overall consistency is good, so not bothered by regulators, now just finding a good pellet to get the groups tight.

    Thanks all for the input the help has been outstanding. It's a nice gun overall but I wouldn't recommend this particular model to anyone, as it's overall fit and internals feels a bit like its a gun made out of other gun bits.

    Just to say Andy is a great guy for the servicing of guns and blacking etc and a really nice fella too.

    Atb

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Coventry
    Posts
    2,840
    I too have a Knight (in .22). When purchased it was doing 10ftlb with no power curve as you'd normally get on an unregulated gun - shot count on a full charge from 250b to 50bar was around 450 - 500 and the power gradually dropped down to 9ftlb - it also suffered from bad hammer bounce.
    Anti-tamper was the steel shear bolt. Transfer port was opened up to 3.5mm and a Lane reg installed. Initially it was running very hot and the hammer spring had to have 3 coils collapsed. After running in it had crept up a bit so another coil and a half were collapsed. It now sits at 11.2ftlb with AA Field, gives around 750 shots on a fill and the action is now silent. Well worth the effort getting these set up correctly
    I'm telling you it moved!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,608
    Hi thanks for the information and reply, yes I had expected the lanes regulator would make a difference as I think in the inner workings of the TP valve area there's a limiter, as the hammer adjuster doesn't do anything.

    Not sure on the price of the lanes regulator and I assume it'll need a hole drilled in the air cylinder to work correctly, but haven't had time to look unfortunately.

    I see how it goes for a week or two and let it settle as it's doing between 10.8-11.4 ftlb give or take with jsb's so that's ok.

    But need to get my cylinder filled as the local shop doesn't have a filling station anymore.

    Atb

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Exeter
    Posts
    37,642
    JR Services Kentisbeare, (J28 M5) do 300bar 01884 266400.
    Don't know anyone closer for a cyl fill.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,608
    Thank you Angrybear I was going to try Ladd's near Exeter, but if not I'll try JR Services. I actually supply product too them so do know them quite well, but it's an hour plus away.

    Much appreciated the help and advice 👍

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