HW 35 Mussings ?

[TonyL]

Yep, they are such a versatile rifle.

Initially brought to our mainstream attention in the Age of Enlightenment, courtesy of Airgun World. Rugged and tough. Rock solid build quality. Superb trigger and accuracy. Perceived high power (although we later discovered that this sometimes wasn't always delivered). So many will have been bought for hunting purposes.

But that quality, accuracy and trigger, the precision, the heft, that lovely manual barrel latch and its refined operation, coupled with the lower comb also make it a stand out classic for open / peep sight use for both shorter and longer range disciplines.

An utterly superb and pivotal air rifle of our times, and a gateway to even more modern and advanced designs. And it can exceed the performances of many of its younger pretenders with style and grace and keep doing it for generations. A proper heirloom rifle.

We owe it so much.

[Blackrider]

Just a matter of me "switching hands about" to counter my left handed afliction in respect of that barrel latch when loading Tony !

[TonyL]

Would you normally use your left or right hand to cock the rifle, John?

I'm right handed. In recent years I've been suffering on and off with weird shooting "nervy" pains and numbness in my arms. Docs and scans suggest tendonitis. I thought it was more down to breaking my neck years ago (bike accident!) and knackered discs.

I've always used my left arm to break the barrel / operate the underlever. However, the other week, just before The Bash, when checking my guns over and checking zero, my left arm was particularly bad. And Jon Budd has often advocated the use of the right for cocking (for right handed shooters) so as not to fatigue the supporting arm so much. So I tried cocking with my right.

Y'know; it worked. Cock with the right, then hold barrel with the left whilst inserting the pellet. I'm not saying you should do the same, just that it's actually quite surprising how quickly we can adapt our habits / technique when needs be.. I've 100% exclusively used my left for cocking for about 46 years and found I could adapt quickly. Also used my "new" technique at The Bash.

So I think you'll adapt quickly and seemlessly and adopt a usable and effective regime.

[maximus]

Was shooting my nickel plated 35 last night, after reading Tony's last post I realised I cocked it with my left and load with the right, pretty seamless action.

[fieldandtarget]

As a left hander I find the 35 easy and quick to load.Release the barrel latch with left thumb and pull barrel down with right hand.Load the pellet with left hand.
They're great rifles.Always enjoy shooting them.

[Blackrider]

I adapt to whichever air rifle I’m shooting Tony and over a long session I switch hands for cocking and loading.
TX’s are tricky with the anti bear trap lever but I cope. The worst I had was a Diana Air King which with its right side cocking lever and it’s heavy weight was a “bugger” !
Nice accurate gun but I eventually sold it !
I would adapt to a 35 pretty quickly !

[Dornfelderliebe]

I'm beginning to find my K hard to cock and want to investigate getting a 3d printed slip on cocking aid, something along the lines of the one used on a Scorpion pistol.
Getting it to lock around the fore sight might be a problem but it would be an interesting winter project.
Any thoughts on the strength and cost of a 3D printed item and recommendations for where to go?

[maximus]

You used to be able to get a hw silencer that could be used with the open sights if you want to still use them, might be a better option.

[Dornfelderliebe]

You used to be able to get a hw silencer that could be used with the open sights if you want to still use them, might be a better option.

That would be a good solution, my 99 has a supplied HW silencer which is strong enough to use as an aid but that is a threaded fitting.
I assume the one you're talking about is strong enough to do the job.

[Blackrider]

Thought I would pull this issue back from the crypt as I've "mused" long enough about a 35 and decided I don't want another heavy air rifle so something along the lines of a "well fettled" HW 99S would be preferrable in .22 Cal. !

Whats the "galling issue" all about, do all new 99's suffer from it ?

[TonyL]

A nicely fettled 99 is an absolute joy, John.

The "galling" issue refers to the cocking lever running too tightly on the underside of the cylinder. Later models have a different lever arrangement which doesn't quite cure the issue in 100% of cases. But some don't gall at all.

Not much time to go into detail right now but have a search and you should find lots of threads on the subject. Also, Nick did a video on the subject on the Tinbum Tuning website.

Hopefully you'll find all the information you need. If not, shout up and we / I will be able to further enlighten.

[TonyL]

Thought I would pull this issue back from the crypt as I've "mused" long enough about a 35 and decided I don't want another heavy air rifle so something along the lines of a "well fettled" HW 99S would be preferrable in .22 Cal. !

Whats the "galling issue" all about, do all new 99's suffer from it ?

A nicely fettled 99 is an absolute joy, John.

The "galling" issue refers to the cocking lever running too tightly on the underside of the cylinder. Later models have a different lever arrangement which doesn't quite cure the issue in 100% of cases. But some don't gall at all.

Not much time to go into detail right now but have a search and you should find lots of threads on the subject. Also, Nick did a video on the subject on the Tinbum Tuning website.

Hopefully you'll find all the information you need. If not, shout up and we / I will be able to further enlighten.

A little more detail.....essentially, what you are trying to achieve is to ensure that there is sufficient clearance between the cocking lever and the cylinder and that there are no sharp edges to cut into the cylinder. Also, the cocking shoe "horn" that engages with the piston often needs smoothing out a little.

On earlier versions, many would then fit a synthetic insert into the cocking lever recess to ensure no metal-to-metal contact. Later versions have a synthetic insert fitted with a tensioning spring underneath. Many people remove the spring. Many say that the later version didn't rid the problem, it shifted it rearwards, more towards the cocking shoe horn.

Basically you want sufficient clearance, no sharp edges and moly grease / paste.

And, as above, many do not show the issue.

[Blackrider]

Strange that this fault should only occur in the 99 or is it apparent in other Weihrauch air rifles ? I would have thought a company such as Weihrauch would have sorted the issue OR not allowed an airgun to retain this type of defect.

Is it due to the fact that they have tried to squeeze the attributes of larger efficient models such as the 80 into a smaller compact package ?

[TonyL]

Hi John, the HW30 is also affected. I was once told that the 35 might also be affected to some degree, but this might not actually be the case.
It has nothing to do with chasing power. More to do with pivot points (barrel pivot to cocking lever angles) being moved on later models in an attempt to lose the infamous "click" that some HW models "boasted" that employed the hinged cocking lever.
Yes, it shouldn't be there. But to avoid any model due to this potential issue is to miss out on some brilliant, sweet shooting and very accurate rifles. And it is quite an easy (and permanent) fix.

[evert]

On earlier versions, many would then fit a synthetic insert into the cocking lever recess to ensure no metal-to-metal contact. Later versions have a synthetic insert fitted with a tensioning spring underneath. Many people remove the spring. Many say that the later version didn't rid the problem, it shifted it rearwards, more towards the cocking shoe horn.

Mine is made before they made the change to plastic insert, and it was grinding metal in both places you describe.
Perhaps the best sporting springer available if it wasnt for the cocking lever issue.