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Thread: A bit boring really

  1. #31
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    heating for a press fit works in some circumstances, but I'd really not go that route for a long thin barrel. Just loctite it. The surface area is huge and the forces small, so it'll be fine.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. But not lathes. I have too many lathes. Thanks, JB.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post
    The choked end is at the shallow groove but is does feel very tight. I've just rodded my HW .25 as well and it has less resistance. I will be taking a box of bits to the engineer on Friday and see what he thinks about heating the barrel.
    Oh and I'll see about him reaming the cylinder for the Aussie seal parachute conversion.
    You are dedicated, thats for sure! Will be interesting to hear how the FX liner performs in a springer!
    Too many airguns!

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by evert View Post
    You are dedicated, thats for sure! Will be interesting to hear how the FX liner performs in a springer!
    My guess it'll be just fine, as it will be fully supported
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. But not lathes. I have too many lathes. Thanks, JB.

  4. #34
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    I dropped the parts off with the engineer today. He said boring the barrel will cost me (but you can't take it with you), and put is one inch reamer down the cylinder while I was there, pointing out that there was a scar in the cylinder presumably from inadequate lubrication.
    This cylinder was tight when I bought it but I was able to push the piston gently (with a Welsh Willy parachute seal) after this. Before and with a standard seal it was very difficult to remove.

    He is happy that Loctite will take up any difference in thous between barrel and liner.

    I mislaid my Mercury barrel bolt and will have to drop that off next week along with a silencer for him to screw cut the BSA barrel.

    Interestingly the counterboring at the end of a BSA barrel is a smidgeon bigger than the FX barrel liner and gives a good visual idea of how much steel will surround the liner. There's plenty.

    May St Jude please help me with this one.
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post

    I mislaid my Mercury barrel bolt
    are you using the meteor cylinder ? Bear in mind the meteor jaws are hollow, so you will need to be careful how you use that bolt...
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. But not lathes. I have too many lathes. Thanks, JB.

  6. #36
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    Ooo this is getting good.


    It's a shame that posting pics on here is such a faff. We gotta have pics of this !



    .

  7. #37
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    PS, be careful screwcutting for 1/2" UNF.

    the OD of the thread is 12.7mm. The root dia is what, 11.2mm ? If the couterbored muzzle is a shade over the 9mm of the liner, say 9.5mm, that only leaves 1.7mm, or 0.85mm wall. It a bit thin, especially if you are going to be holding onto it when cocking.

    even if you chop the counterbore ( i wouldn't in case you want to revert to open sights), the 9mm liner still only equates to a wall thickness of 1.1mm


    I'd just stick to a slip on silencer.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. But not lathes. I have too many lathes. Thanks, JB.

  8. #38
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    Sorry Jon again I have failed to explain myself properly.
    The FX barrel being only 380 mm allowed 90 mm of original barrel spare I cut 69 mm off leaving about 20 mm clear of the insert, of full thickness barrel to be screw cut which is the same as was put on my smooth bore Airsporter.

    I have committed to carbine length now but could easily cancel the screw cut if you think it would not work.

    P.s That Sandwell Field sports reflex silencer would look pretty good but please correct me if you know better.
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    are you using the meteor cylinder ? Bear in mind the meteor jaws are hollow, so you will need to be careful how you use that bolt...
    Aha I've already had one done. John the engineer drilled through the outer wall and the bolt bears upon the inner wall with a thin washer inside. He trimmed the Mercury bolt so it fits flush.
    This time I'm going to fit shim washers against the breech block which could be visible but there's only one way to find out.
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waddy View Post
    Ooo this is getting good.


    It's a shame that posting pics on here is such a faff. We gotta have pics of this !



    .
    I'm too techno incompetent but will try to work some thing out.
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post
    Sorry Jon again I have failed to explain myself properly.
    The FX barrel being only 380 mm allowed 90 mm of original barrel spare I cut 69 mm off leaving about 20 mm clear of the insert, of full thickness barrel to be screw cut.
    .. so are you going to have that last 20mm bored through approx 7mm (to clear a 6.35mm pellet) ? In that case that should work in terms of thread wall strength, but it will almost certainly mess up your accuracy (think of all that air rushing past/around the pellet in close confines to it).
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. But not lathes. I have too many lathes. Thanks, JB.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post
    I dropped the parts off with the engineer today. He said boring the barrel will cost me (but you can't take it with you), and put is one inch reamer down the cylinder while I was there, pointing out that there was a scar in the cylinder presumably from inadequate lubrication.
    This cylinder was tight when I bought it but I was able to push the piston gently (with a Welsh Willy parachute seal) after this. Before and with a standard seal it was very difficult to remove.

    He is happy that Loctite will take up any difference in thous between barrel and liner.

    I mislaid my Mercury barrel bolt and will have to drop that off next week along with a silencer for him to screw cut the BSA barrel.

    Interestingly the counterboring at the end of a BSA barrel is a smidgeon bigger than the FX barrel liner and gives a good visual idea of how much steel will surround the liner. There's plenty.

    May St Jude please help me with this one.
    All systems go then, Tom. This should be a fantastic project and very rewarding. Well done on locating that engineer. He sounds very helpful and flexible & enthusiastic.

    Will look forward to further reports.
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  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    .. so are you going to have that last 20mm bored through approx 7mm (to clear a 6.35mm pellet) ? In that case that should work in terms of thread wall strength, but it will almost certainly mess up your accuracy (think of all that air rushing past/around the pellet in close confines to it).
    Hmm rethink required.
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
    All systems go then, Tom. This should be a fantastic project and very rewarding. Well done on locating that engineer. He sounds very helpful and flexible & enthusiastic.

    Will look forward to further reports.
    Yes It's a case of the universe equalising things out, his knowledge being inversely proportional to mine.
    It's one thing having ideas but I need the people on this forum and him to carry them out.
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post
    Hmm rethink required.
    You could go with a 1/2"x28 thread, leaves more wall thickness and works on 9mm and .357"
    Too many airguns!

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