Bash dates 2025

[TonyL]

92 to go, peeps.

BOING!

[Waddy]

I hope your back's feeling better soon, Paul.

Good news on those mounts.

Yes, low to medium power rifles with good accuracy and superb manners are most enjoyable and rewarding to shoot, aren't they? Especially when enjoying extended sessions. And they drive home the fact that you really do not need "maximum power approaching the limit".

Mmmm.....what to do with that cylinder? That's a sad and annoying state of affairs. I guess an amount of further honing etc might increase the diameter to an unacceptable level? Maybe with enough moly buffed into that surface when building, some high content moly paste on the tail and a little extra helping of moly grease on the cylinder walls after installing the piston and pushing forward will help?

The back is slowly improving. Fortunately it's pushed the boss into finding a stand in for the drivers, which is a massive bonus if it comes off as it was all going to fall on my shoulders (3 drivers x fives weeks off) plus doing my own job.

I just remembered this previous post, Paul, and thought you had mentioned this finish further into the cylinder. Yes, guessing just a bit of finer polishing with a paste is all you'd dare do. And then buff some moly powder / Dri-Slide / moly paste into it.

Shame you're having to pour so much effort, angst and money into this.

Of course, you could sleeve it down and go smaller bore, but that's REALLY going to increase the spend, probably to unacceptably high levels and you'd have a big chunk of money invested in something that really then HAS to outshine everything else in your cupboard?

I think you are right about the way to go with the cylinder, I've got some fancy mountain bike dry chain lube I'll get out & have a look at. I've been offered two pistons now, one by the chap I bought the action off.

If I buy it & yet another trigger sear I'll have spent at least £150 on fixing this £150 action. I think I ought to pm him & explain what's gone on.

I don't think the 35 has the stroke to go small bore ? Talking of small pistons the 80 that I've got with a small bore piston has me itching to strip it

[TonyL]

Mick, T20, did one with a LGV piston, Paul.

OK guys, with all this talk of SCR etc... How about we put a list together of the standard stroke lengths, bore sizes and TP sizes?

I've got ones for a HW 77/97 and a 95 (HW80 + HW35 added) so far.... Would be interested to know them for the 99, 80, 55, TX/Prosport old and new, LGV etc....

I'll need: Model - Bore size (B) - Stroke Length (S) - Transfer Port Diameter x Length (TP) - Piston weight in grams without the liner but with the seal.

Standard rifles
Model	Bore D (mm)	Stroke (mm)	Swept Vol.(cc)	TP D x L (mm)	TP Vol. (cc)	SCR	Piston(g)	Caliber	Notes
HW77/97 early	25	81	39.76	3x6	0.042	938:1	235	-	up to serial number: 1446048 - Some rifles have 2.9, 3 or 3.1mm TP
HW77/97 Late	26	81	43.01	3x6	0.042	1014:1	265	-	From serial number 1446049 - Some rifles have 2.9, 3 or 3.1mm TP
HW95	26	85	45.13	3x15	0.106	426:1	254	-	-
HW80	30	80	56.55	2.9x11	0.073	779:1	-	-	-
HW35 Early	30	65	45.95	4x26	0.327	141:1	-	-	Leather seal (up to serial number 843636)
HW35 Late	30	65	43.83	2.8x26	0.160	274:1	-	-	Synthetic seal (843637 on)
TX200 (MK1+2)	25	84	41.23	3.65x9.8	0.103	403:1	a bit more than 225?	-	Additional Top Hat weight.... not sure of weights. Piston will weigh more due to longer piston rod.
TX200 (MK3)	25	98	48.11	3.65x9.8	0.103	470:1	225	-	.177 add 27g top hat, .22 add 16g for top hat
Webley Vulcan	27	79	45.23	2.5x19	0.093	485:1	-	-	-
Webley Hawke	25	79	38.78	4x16	0.201	193:1	-	-	-
Westlake B2	25.4	80	40.54	4x28	0.352	116:1	-	-	-
HW99S	26	71	37.7	3x17?	0.120	314:1	235 - 225	-	225g piston with seal and no liner. Add 10g if you leave the weight inside the piston.
Modified Rifles below
HW35LGV	25	71	34.85	4x6	0.075	463:1	-	.177	Walther LGV Piston - Conversion by Mick (T 20)
HW77/97 early	25	81	39.76	3.9x6	0.072	555:1	235	-	TP opened up to 3.9 as suggested by Bigtoe01
HW95	26	85	45.13	3.6x15	0.153	296:1	254	-	TP opened up to 3.6 as suggested by Bigtoe01
HW35 Early mod.	30	62	43.83	4x26	0.327	135:1	-	-	Synthetic seal convention (Chambers etc)
model	Bore	stroke	Swept Vol.	TP dims	0.042	scr	Piston Weight	Caliber	notes

[Waddy]

Mick, T20, did one with a LGV piston, Paul.

That's a goldmine of information Tony.


Even made me think of cutting a 95 piston down to do a 26mm sleeve down on the 35




.

[TonyL]

I'm not sure how it would be made to work, Paul, as you're going to have to get the cocking linkage to engage with that piston in a sleeve, but our clever engineers who have made such conversions happen - T20, Shed tuner and NickG - would know. I'm guessing the LGV piston route may well have been more straightforward, with it having the 30mm section at the back? They'll be like hens' teeth now, but a TX one might work? And then you'd need to work out the cocking puzzle and try and get a bit more stroke.

However, if it were me (and you already have the reduced cylinder '80 and the 26mm '95 and '97), I'd probably stick with trying to get this as nice as possible whilst retaining the 30mm bore, giving a different character and saving some money to boot. You could put the reduced cylinder idea on the back burner for now, to be realised if getting that 30mm cylinder bore right doesn't work?

[TonyL]

91 to go, peeps.

BOING!

[TonyL]

That's a goldmine of information Tony.


.

It most certainly is, Paul. In case you weren't aware, you'll find this excellent thread on the Useful Airgun / Shooting Tips section. Started by Bruce Gill, springer nut and Boinger Bash attendee at Mick's from the early days.

[Trumpetier]

Anyone going to the bash in May, got a Daisy Red Ryder there considering selling ? Looking for one for my dad

[NewPaul]

Anyone going to the bash in May, got a Daisy Red Ryder there considering selling ? Looking for one for my dad

I just googled it because I wasn’t sure what the Red Ryder looked like. I see Sunderland Airguns are selling them - £59.95. I don’t know if that is a good price or you particularly wanted a second hand one? But as it’s not far from you I just thought I’d post it up.

https://sunderlandairguns.com/produc...axmRJLbT9pb2ds

[Waddy]

I'm not sure how it would be made to work, Paul, as you're going to have to get the cocking linkage to engage with that piston in a sleeve, but our clever engineers who have made such conversions happen - T20, Shed tuner and NickG - would know. I'm guessing the LGV piston route may well have been more straightforward, with it having the 30mm section at the back? They'll be like hens' teeth now, but a TX one might work? And then you'd need to work out the cocking puzzle and try and get a bit more stroke.

However, if it were me (and you already have the reduced cylinder '80 and the 26mm '95 and '97), I'd probably stick with trying to get this as nice as possible whilst retaining the 30mm bore, giving a different character and saving some money to boot. You could put the reduced cylinder idea on the back burner for now, to be realised if getting that 30mm cylinder bore right doesn't work?

It looks like I've got a 30mm piston coming & I've already bought a new seal, getting it to work as standard has been enough of an ordeal . It has got a rather nice spring too that would be a shame to waste.

I was looking at the spare 95 piston & thinking if the end of the cocking slot was cut out & welded in further up for the shorter stroke (or maybe a tad longer like the LGV one ? ) then the skirt was trimmed..... there would be a longer latch rod to cut a new notch in & shorten.... Source a bit of 30mm tube with a 2mm wall etc etc




.

[Trumpetier]

I just googled it because I wasn’t sure what the Red Ryder looked like. I see Sunderland Airguns are selling them - £59.95. I don’t know if that is a good price or you particularly wanted a second hand one? But as it’s not far from you I just thought I’d post it up.

https://sunderlandairguns.com/produc...axmRJLbT9pb2ds

Handy to know, cheers Paul. If I don't get one secondhand, I'll probably have a run up

[TonyL]

Anyone going to the bash in May, got a Daisy Red Ryder there considering selling ? Looking for one for my dad

Our host, Neil, has one, Dave. I had a play with it last year. Great fun. Doubt he'd be selling, though. As Pauly has shown, they're really cheap new.

[TonyL]

It looks like I've got a 30mm piston coming & I've already bought a new seal, getting it to work as standard has been enough of an ordeal . It has got a rather nice spring too that would be a shame to waste.


.

Yep, put thoughts of the reduced cylinder aside, Paul. Nice to keep at least one 30mm as a "thumper".

Hope the new piston and seal does the job and you get the whole thing as it should be and to your liking.

[TonyL]

90 to go, peeps.


BOING!

[TonyL]

The back is slowly improving. Fortunately it's pushed the boss into finding a stand in for the drivers, which is a massive bonus if it comes off as it was all going to fall on my shoulders (3 drivers x fives weeks off) plus doing my own job.




I think you are right about the way to go with the cylinder, I've got some fancy mountain bike dry chain lube I'll get out & have a look at.

I hope your back continues to improve, Paul, and that's a result with the stand-in. Hope it works out.

Re that cylinder.....yep, give it a light polishing as you mentioned with the Solvol. Never forget that, in the dark, distant past (), some exponents of spring gun tuning actually tried to achieve a cross-hatched, slightly roughened, finish to hold lube (a) for lubrication and, (b) to give a source of fuel to promote controlled dieselling. Long behind us now.

I'd try and polish as best you can and then, if you don't have any already, buff some moly powder, moly paste or moly from a spray into the cylinder surface. Then buff it again. Then the tiniest of smears of moly paste onto the edge of the piston seal, any acetal rings and the rear bearing portion of the piston. And then, as previously mentioned, once the piston is inserted and pushed fully forwards, a helping of moly grease around the circumference of the cylinder, behind the piston. Should help with smoothness and to ward off, hopefully, any future wear.