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Thread: Airsporter S mk2 strip.

  1. #1
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    Airsporter S mk2 strip.

    Hi chaps. Well I pulled the airsporter out of the cabinet this morning to find is is locked up solid. Can't even cock it slightly so guess the buffer washer has deteriorated and that's why it won't cock. I know from stripping down a Mercury 25yrs ago these bottom ends screw out don't they? What's the best spring compressor to use to strip these buggers down as having to unscrew is harder then the normal knock out pin arrangement on newer guns. Advise please lads will be gratefully received . Chris

  2. #2
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    Usually stripping them might not be too much of an issue, but if you have "ample" preload, the rebuild can be trickier. Whack the trigger block to loosen and then, wearing a thick leather glove and getting your weight right over it, stripping should be safe.

    When fettling a Mercury a few years ago, I asked Welsh Willy for a shorter than usual spring and extra preload washers. The shorter spring made reassembly very easy by hand and I seem to remember power was a very sweetly delivered 10ft.lbs.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!

  3. #3
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    Putting the muzzle on a cushion and wrap a towell round the block helps also, as before, a whack with a rubber mallet helps.
    Its harder to get them back together, with my old ones that were not used for pest control anymore i cut a few coils off until i could do it fairly easily by hand and tbh, it made them a sweeter gun to use and probably less stress on the innerds.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
    Usually stripping them might not be too much of an issue, but if you have "ample" preload, the rebuild can be trickier. Whack the trigger block to loosen and then, wearing a thick leather glove and getting your weight right over it, stripping should be safe.

    When fettling a Mercury a few years ago, I asked Welsh Willy for a shorter than usual spring and extra preload washers. The shorter spring made reassembly very easy by hand and I seem to remember power was a very sweetly delivered 10ft.lbs.
    Preload washers go In front of the spring?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir rocco View Post
    Putting the muzzle on a cushion and wrap a towell round the block helps also, as before, a whack with a rubber mallet helps.
    Its harder to get them back together, with my old ones that were not used for pest control anymore i cut a few coils off until i could do it fairly easily by hand and tbh, it made them a sweeter gun to use and probably less stress on the innerds.
    Thanks for the advice

  6. #6
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    I always use an old HW80 piston seal to put the muzzle on when unscrewing back blocks.
    Plinkerer and Tinkerer

  7. #7
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    Many moons ago I got fed up of the pointy end of the back block digging into the palm of my hand, so I made a little jig to facilitate this procedure. I have screen captured the part of the feature that covers the making of this jig which I originally wrote for Airgunner magazine so you can make your own. It only takes a few minutes to make and saves a lot of messing about:



    Current airguns:- Steyr LG110: Steyr LP10: Air Arms HFT500: Weihrauch97 fully customised.

  8. #8
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    Thats a smart idea, i will copy that the next time i need to get inside mine, i have seen mullered blocks from being squeezed in a vice and others that have had a bar through the lever hole that has totally ruined things,

  9. #9
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    Do you have an engineers vice? I find that if I clamp (suitable padding e.g. thick rubber sheet!) either the trigger block or the action in the vice and then unscrew the action/trigger block ... safety specs, leather gloves and towel are advisable ... you have a lot of control for when the screw thread gives way.
    Cheers, Phil

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    Do you have an engineers vice? I find that if I clamp (suitable padding e.g. thick rubber sheet!) either the trigger block or the action in the vice and then unscrew the action/trigger block ... safety specs, leather gloves and towel are advisable ... you have a lot of control for when the screw thread gives way.
    Cheers, Phil
    People overthink this. There is the area between the top of the block and the trigger guard. Houses the trigger mechanism. Clamp it there in a padded vise. Then thread the action off. You need strong hands to put it back on.
    I do it this way and not a scratch on the painted areas. Airsporters and Mercurys



  11. #11
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    Thanks chaps. How do you boys go about removing the jammed cheesy piston seal spacer. Thats what's jammed it solid at the moment.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by WILBA View Post
    Preload washers go In front of the spring?
    I just used two - one ahead of the top hat and one at the front of the spring, I think.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by WILBA View Post
    Thanks chaps. How do you boys go about removing the jammed cheesy piston seal spacer. Thats what's jammed it solid at the moment.
    I managed to persuade the Mercury piston out by hammering down on the piston with a steel rod inserted. But mine was just tight and not seized. Some easing fluid / penetrating oil / solvent may be required. Others that have done them will shout up.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by u.k.neil View Post
    Many moons ago I got fed up of the pointy end of the back block digging into the palm of my hand, so I made a little jig to facilitate this procedure. I have screen captured the part of the feature that covers the making of this jig which I originally wrote for Airgunner magazine so you can make your own. It only takes a few minutes to make and saves a lot of messing about:



    Yep, I remember that, Neil.

    Great idea. If I thought I might be working on a good few more in the future, I'd probably have a go at making something up along those lines.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!

  15. #15
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    Thought I might post this even though it is most likely too late. Reassembling the rifle can be difficult, depending on your strength and facilities. One way is to clamp the cylinder and offer the block up to it ... maybe using one of Neil's gizmos to hold it or maybe just a strong leather glove. The other way is to clamp the block and offer the action to it. With an Airsporter I find removing the foresight helps a lot ... then get a bit of wood about 2" square and put a depression in the centre about 6mm deep and big enough to fit the barrel muzzle in. This allows much better purchase on the muzzle when trying to push the action into the block to start the thread. This will also work on a Mercury although it can be best to split the barrel from the cylinder or you run the risk of the action opening as you push. It has never happened to me but there is always a first time and I would split the cylinder off.
    Just thoughts ...
    Cheers, Phil

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