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Thread: Baikal Makarov Gen 4 low velocity

  1. #1
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    Baikal Makarov Gen 4 low velocity

    Not sure why i am having low velocity from my Baikal Makarov Gen 4, i have fitted new seals in the mag valve, fitted a new Co2 bulb but when firing, its very low velocity the lead balls just plop out on the ground. Any sugestion from the Baikal Makarov experts.

  2. #2
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    Remove the magazine and push on the valve to make sure you have gas flowing. If the gas flows then you probably have a blocked barrel or the magazine isn't allowing the bb's out properly. If using lead bb's it's common that they deform because the mag spring is too strong.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by shivadow View Post
    Remove the magazine and push on the valve to make sure you have gas flowing. If the gas flows then you probably have a blocked barrel or the magazine isn't allowing the bb's out properly. If using lead bb's it's common that they deform because the mag spring is too strong.
    The gas is flowing and the lead balls are coming out but not as high velocity as it normally does. Not sure if the gas seal at the front of the magazine inside the one that has the washer on top that the small spring in side pushes against is a little bit tight and might be crucial to alowing enough gas to escape. Any one had a similar problem.

  4. #4
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    makarov

    hi chris sounds like gas starvation is the bulb being pierced properly ?if you have just changed the o rings they have no bearing on the velocity just for sealing even the one in the front of the valve , steve. how do i know this ,because i just resealed a makarov and the bulb seal was slightly too thick ,i think part of the piercing pin top had snapped off making it too low and had exactly the same result ,held gas but fired with low velocity ,steve

  5. #5
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    The only way to find out is to disassemble and check. The easiest check to do is pull the trigger guard down and pull the slide off, unscrew the barrel and check the o ring is seated properly. Then make sure the barrel is screwed in tight when you screw it back in. If the ring and barrel are correct then the problem will be in the magazine. They naturally leak into the ammo rack when fired but you need to make sure the correct seals are used in front of the valve so you'll need the correct tools to remove the valve without damaging it. Also, when tightening the valve you have to tighten it VERY VERY tight or it'll leak. There is a metal washer AND and o ring. If they are in the wrong way round it will cause problems. I think it's washer first, oring, then valve.

    When you fire it place your free hand under the grip, as if catching the magazine when releasing. If you feel the gas hit your hand you need to reseal everything and make sure all the parts are as tight as they can possibly be. When I say "tight" I mean you literally have to swing on them with all your might.

    Another MAJOR issue with all mp654k is the bb alignment. If they don't align properly they won't fire correctly. It's caused by the lead balls being crushed in the magazine which is why I recommend changing to a smooth bore barrel and steel bb's. Or just don't fill the magazine to full capacity and only put a few bb's in at a time. The more you put in, the more the spring pushes, the more the bbs are crushed.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by lindabowkett View Post
    hi chris sounds like gas starvation is the bulb being pierced properly ?if you have just changed the o rings they have no bearing on the velocity just for sealing even the one in the front of the valve , steve. how do i know this ,because i just resealed a makarov and the bulb seal was slightly too thick ,i think part of the piercing pin top had snapped off making it too low and had exactly the same result ,held gas but fired with low velocity ,steve
    I think the "chip" in the piercing pin is normal as mine were the same and didn't cause any issues. This problem is either a seal issue or a bb alignment issue. Those were the problems mine always had.

  7. #7
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    The problem is down to the bulb pin not opening far enough because of the washer being a little bit thick. This washer i fitted didnt need to to tightened up like a mad man as with other washers i used in the past. So i had another play and tightened up the bulb screw much tighter when it already sealed perfectly before, the performance very much improved as near before. When i removed the bulb i found that i had a smaller hole and the pierced flap in the bulb was obstructing the flow as it was in the way of the pierced hole, so thanks to steve he is going to send me thiner bulb washers. He did say you can replace the bulb pins as the unit that screws the top of the mag to the body that hold the bulb washer is made of two parts. For max performance i would find that the opening on the bulb is important, most probably overlooked concentrating too much on the three hole opening on the inside valve. The other thing i found was that my Makarov has a rubber washer fitted on the back of the barrel which slightly protrudes onto the mag when loaded. I assume for a better air seal but not sure if the centre hole should be a 4.5mm pellet or bb lead or copper fit as the BBs i use just drop into the barrel to the start of the rifling past the washer, at the moment the centre measures over 4.5mm more near 5mm. Not sure if the centre of the washer should be tight to add some resistance to the projectile being fired to build up a bit of velocity, anyone know of its importance as some Mak models dont have a washer and as Shivadow mention is only fitted when the barrel is removed. As for fitting a smooth bore barrel my rifled barrel works perfectly fine and would rather fire lead 6 or so shots at a time to avoid steel BBs bouncing back. As for customising i am sure a better bulb opening, a washer renewal behind the barrel and some form of mag alteration to stop lead balls deforming would add to the guns performance.

  8. #8
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    As far as I know you won't find a fix for the magazine crushing the bb's. To change the spring will require a homemade spring. It's a very long and loose/soft spring. If you remove the bottom of the magazine you'll see what I'm talking about.

    As for washers and seals. If you remove any it will leak or won't fire properly. Everything seems to be of a tight tolerance..

    Glad you got to the problem.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by shivadow View Post
    The only way to find out is to disassemble and check. The easiest check to do is pull the trigger guard down and pull the slide off, unscrew the barrel and check the o ring is seated properly. Then make sure the barrel is screwed in tight when you screw it back in. If the ring and barrel are correct then the problem will be in the magazine. They naturally leak into the ammo rack when fired but you need to make sure the correct seals are used in front of the valve so you'll need the correct tools to remove the valve without damaging it. Also, when tightening the valve you have to tighten it VERY VERY tight or it'll leak. There is a metal washer AND and o ring. If they are in the wrong way round it will cause problems. I think it's washer first, oring, then valve.

    When you fire it place your free hand under the grip, as if catching the magazine when releasing. If you feel the gas hit your hand you need to reseal everything and make sure all the parts are as tight as they can possibly be. When I say "tight" I mean you literally have to swing on them with all your might.

    Another MAJOR issue with all mp654k is the bb alignment. If they don't align properly they won't fire correctly. It's caused by the lead balls being crushed in the magazine which is why I recommend changing to a smooth bore barrel and steel bb's. Or just don't fill the magazine to full capacity and only put a few bb's in at a time. The more you put in, the more the spring pushes, the more the bbs are crushed.
    it is o ring then the washer then spring

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickerman View Post
    it is o ring then the washer then spring
    Yes its the O ring in first the the metal washer and spring then valve. The metal washer protects the spring damaging the O ring but also pushes the spring pushes down the washer to squeeze the O ring around the valve body etc. You have to be careful when fitting this in the valve are as you can cut into the O ring if not lined up.

  11. #11
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    When I had my Mak one of the things I did was just shorten the bb follower spring, this then doesn’t put as much pressure on the bbs, I can’t however remember how many coils I took off 🥴, a case of trial and error…….dom

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