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Thread: Opening up HW95k transfer port

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyebull View Post
    Its a Sportswaffen Schneider 'SWS' branded one, it weighs 176.5g compared to 113g for the standard HW moddy and is about 25mm shorter and 3/4mm narrower than the HW. Less effective at actual moderation obvs.
    As I said earlier my biggest mistake was getting the k version - I've spent a lot of time trying in various forms to get the perfect smooth shooting light/mediumweight Carbine in the smaller (and tragically less efficient) calibre, and came to the conclusion that in .177 at least, you can either have short and smooth, or light and smooth, or short and light, but you can't have all three without some serious engineering work and a sacrifice to the airgun gods.
    Getting the 95 right demands a fair few correct components and modifications to be done in harmony.
    Doing modifications in isolation, or using the wrong modifications together, is unlikely to work.

    Before you open out the TP, I'd seek further information from those who recommend this action, about other aspects of their setup. Spring spec / weight, spacers, piston sleeve, piston seal and preload etc.
    You need to understand what will happen as a result of your intended modification, and what changes you may need to make in tandem, before making those changes
    B.A.S.C. member

  2. #2
    eyebull's Avatar
    eyebull is offline Even a stopped clock is right twice a day
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    Quote Originally Posted by robs5230 View Post
    Getting the 95 right demands a fair few correct components and modifications to be done in harmony.
    Doing modifications in isolation, or using the wrong modifications together, is unlikely to work.

    Before you open out the TP, I'd seek further information from those who recommend this action, about other aspects of their setup. Spring spec / weight, spacers, piston sleeve, piston seal and preload etc.
    You need to understand what will happen as a result of your intended modification, and what changes you may need to make in tandem, before making those changes
    Oh I'm aware that this on its own won't be a magic bullet. It currently has the stock spring but I'm prepared to fit a softer one if required (and I'm thinking it might be). It currently has a tbt ss kit and this can be removed if needed, and preload can be played with. Plus the newer style seal to be added. More muzzle weight.
    Lots of variables at play, and if it needs to be stripped down a half dozen times to get it right then I'll do that. Basic aim is to get it running in the high 10s to low 11s with as little stress and drama as possible which hopefully will translate to shootability.
    Good deals with these members

  3. #3
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    I can think of no realistic scenario where opening up the 95's port to at least 3.3mm could be detrimental, except possibly a short stroke (20mm extension) to make a 6 FP bell target rifle.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  4. #4
    eyebull's Avatar
    eyebull is offline Even a stopped clock is right twice a day
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    So today is the day for this, put a few pellets through the 95k to warm it up, and then a couple through the chrono - horrible shot cycle, and only 4.5 ft/lb!
    Had to run a couple of other guns through it to double check, and they came out as expected. So must be a knackered piston seal, breech seal is looking a little flat too. Luckily I have replacements for both.
    So time to get this thing stripped. Fingers crossed I get this sorted before it gets dark, otherwise it might have to sit until next Saturday for accuracy testing.
    Good deals with these members

  5. #5
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    do you not have electicity ?
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  6. #6
    eyebull's Avatar
    eyebull is offline Even a stopped clock is right twice a day
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    do you not have electicity ?
    Not at the bottom of the garden where the targets are, no...

    Reaming has gone well - if anyone is thinking of doing this then check the lengths of the reamers before you buy them; mine were 70 and 75mm and *only just* long enough to get to the end of the TP when using a tap holder.
    Piston seal is the old type and as suspected completely shagged. Currently doing a thorough job of deburring and degreasing. Can't find my wd40 brand degreaser but isopropyl alcohol is doing a good job of it.
    Good deals with these members

  7. #7
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    cool. Yes, a slim headed tap holder helps get in between the jaws.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

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