LIMIT GAT TYPE PISTOL

The pistol stripped is marked ‘LIMIT’ and ‘Made in England’ on top of the chamber. The guide may well apply to other Gat types but I cannot guarantee this.
According to Hiller the LIMIT is identical to the Diana 2 pistol, but the latter has the name Diana and the Huntress symbol on the chamber.
The pistol here was very low on power so clearly needed some attention.

Strip:
You do not need to remove the pistol stock to access the power plant. I found it easiest to clamp a piece of dowel vertically in the jaws on a vice and simply slot the uncocked pistol over the dowel, muzzle up. Obviously, remove the loading prod first (a new seal for the probe can be made from a thin leather disc or an O ring).

Holding the push-in shroud, undo the knurled nut at the end of the barrel. This holds the spring tension so expect it to give suddenly.
Remove the push-in shroud and spring. Remove pistol from the dowel.
Pull the trigger and push the barrel assembly out of the back of the pistol. Note the piston washer on the rear end. If you need to replace this washer proceed as follows: the end knob that the probe screws into will unscrew from the barrel to allow access to the piston sealing washer. Mine was quite firm so I held the barrel carefully in a padded vice and turned the knob with a rubber glove. With the knob free from the barrel the piston washer lifts off. Mine had disintegrated so I made a new one from leather. It is a simple disc shape. Aim for a good fit but not too tight.
Look into the pistol barrel housing and retrieve a metal washer and round leather sealing washer that the barrel passed through. The spring seats against the washer and the leather sealing washer seals around the barrel to prevent air leaks when the trigger is pulled and the shroud and barrel rush forward.
I made a new seal from leather ... take care it is not too tight a fit around the barrel or it will slow the action down.
Fixed inside the action at about the half way point is another assembly through which the barrel passes and upon which the spring sits. Mine appeared to have a seal there but I did not remove it as it seemed to give some grip to the barrel.
Trigger assembly: Mine was OK but if you need to strip it proceed as follows: Remove the screw that holds the trigger guard and unhook the front of the guard from the action. Push out the two pins that hold the grip and remove the action. With a small punch simply push out the small pin that holds the trigger in place. Then push out the pin that holds the sear ... take care not to lose the small sear spring that fits between the sear and the pistol body.

Rebuild:
If you stripped the trigger, rebuild it first and fit the body into the grip. Place the sear into the body and carefully locate the sear spring in the small hole on top of the sear and slide the spring under the body tube. Now fit the sear pin; this will hold the sear and spring in place.
Fit the trigger, making sure that when you pull the trigger the sear moves so that it will free the barrel assembly. Replace action in grip and replace the two pins.
Replace the barrel assembly complete with piston washer; pull trigger to allow barrel assembly to pass over the trigger.
Add the barrel sealing washer over the barrel followed by the metal washer.
Replace pistol on the dowel.
Add the spring and pop-in barrel shroud. Pull down on the shroud to compress the spring a little and allow the end of the barrel to come through the shroud. Fit the knurled nut and tighten
During all of this, add suitable lubrication to the sealing washers. I used SM50 but I suspect that a good oil would do as there is no risk of dieseling.

Push barrel in to cock the pistol, add pellet, secure with loading probe and fire (safely of course).

Cheers, Phil