STRIP AND REBUILD AN EXCELLENT GEVARET PNEUMATIC RIFLE

The Excellent Gevaret rifles were made in Sweden from the early 1900s. This strip is for a model CII from around 1945. Ammunition is 5.4mm ball, which seems difficult to find but may be available in Sweden. The strip is based on my experiences in getting an auction buy working. When we got the rifle it would not cock and the pump, which is basically a bicycle pump, was not working.

Strip: Unscrew the pump cylinder complete with pump handle. Remove the single bolt that holds the stock to the action and remove the action. The trigger block and trigger simply unscrews complete with the exhaust valve and plunger. Collect any large shim washers that separate the trigger block from the sliding loading cover. The cover just slips off.
To access the inlet valve, simply unscrew the valve from where the pump cylinder screwed in. This reveals a valve consisting of a bicycle tyre valve. Ours was an old type with a bit of rubber tubing as the valve seal but I believe other types were sometimes fitted.
To strip the pump, remove the pump handle by undoing the screw on the handle top. Unscrew the top end of the pump cylinder and pull out the pump and rod / washer assembly ... just like a bicycle pump. Put the long spring to one side. Note that the pump washer is fitted to a brass plunger that can move in and out of the end of the rod. Note the two small holes in the rod where the washer assembly screws in and the small hole in the plunger in the centre of the washer. These holes allow air to enter the pump cylinder when the pump is withdrawn, but air is prevented from leaving the cylinder by a simple valve that is closed by air pressure when the pump is pushed down. To access this valve, simply unscrew the washer and plunger assembly from the rod .. there is a recess in the end of the pump rod and a rubber disc at its base.
The exhaust valve seal is clearly seen on the end of the plunger coming out of the trigger block.

Basically, that is it. You can strip the trigger block down if you wish. To check it is functioning, push the cocking plunger in and see if the sear engages. If it does, all is most likely OK, but if you wish to dismantle it then unscrew the cocking plunger cover to reveal the end of the valve rod. The trigger is retained by a simple spring and a pivot screw. The trigger has a sear cut into it. Unscrew the nut and remove the valve rod. Be prepared for two springs and a spacer. Clean and refit.

Rebuild: If needed, make and fit a new leather pump washer. Instructions on making leather washers are on the BBS. I replaced the small valve at the end of the pump rod with a disc of 3mm rubber sheet. I fitted a new exhaust valve seal, again from 3mm rubber sheet. Getting the latter thickness was a matter of trial and error. Too thin and the valve does not seal when the trigger is set, too thick and you cannot cock the trigger. The inlet valve rubber was replaced by a bit of silicon rubber tubing (1.5mm internal diameter) obtained from a fishing tackle shop where it is sold for fishermen to put on their floats.
Rebuild is a simple reversal of the strip. My first attempts failed due to air leaks in various places. I cured these by using plumbers ptfe tape around all threaded assemblies, including the thread on the cycle valve that acts as the inlet valve.
When screwing the trigger block back, remember that when mounted in the stock, the trigger block is in line with the action. The swinging loading port also needs to be a fair air seal against the barrel breech. The position of all these components is critical to getting the exhaust valve to seal and for air to transfer to the barrel. I needed to make an extra shim washer from a bit of beer can in order to get the exhaust valve to function properly and the loading port to seal effectively with the trigger block in the correct position. As I said ... trial and error solved it.

Cheers, Phil