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Thread: Deep rust pitting removal

  1. #1
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    Deep rust pitting removal

    Any ideas for the above problem apart from very sore hands and very little result ?

    Its on a steel barrel and cylinder if that helps ?
    BSA Lightning XL 0.177 V-Mach Tune 3x9x40 IR

  2. #2
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    the hw80 i found in my partners sister barn was badly rusted and pitted , i found a yank site that said to use auto transmission oil (atf) and 0000 wire wool as it would not take off too much of the bluing, it worked well on the hw80, i also used emery paper at work and held the action in a vice and use the emery ( we use it to polish crankshaft journals and big ends) and used ot to give the action a smooth surface and the same with the barrel,i them re blued it, not brand new finnish but better than rust

  3. #3
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    hello mate i have had this problem too and used wd40 and m3 wool with elbow grease hope this helps !!!

  4. #4
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    You know those double ended pencil rubbers that have a white end for pencil and a rougher blue end for ink? Well, I've used the rough end with atf before and they did a good job.

    With all these things, try it on an inconspicuous area first.
    I really wouldn't waste time reading Punchsteve's signature. I have better uses of 5 minutes...!

  5. #5
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    Sorry should of said, I have rubbed them down to bare metal with no rust but still have pitting all over and i just cant get rid off it apart from an angle grinder !!
    BSA Lightning XL 0.177 V-Mach Tune 3x9x40 IR

  6. #6
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    Years ago i saw an article in Guns & ammo annual where a Mauser broom handle pistol was restored. It was so heavily pitted & worn it was little better than a relic. The gunsmith filled individual pits with Tig weld & built up all the edges with Tig welding before remachining the corners & surfaces, the finished pistol was superb & could not be distinguished from a new one. The cost was astronomical but showed what is possible.

  7. #7
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    O dear, don't use an angle grinder on it, you will have to start the whole polishing process again. Only way to do it is to use wet and drys down though the grades. Something like 80 grit to start until all the pitting is gone then 120, 400, if you know someone with a lathe, makes life allot easier for barrels.
    Pro-Target 3 with a Silver Weaver.
    S200, tweakied, Ginb, with a Burris.
    B+C HW 95 special with a Burris.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrikirkby View Post
    Sorry should of said, I have rubbed them down to bare metal with no rust but still have pitting all over and i just cant get rid off it apart from an angle grinder !!
    Can the pits be filled with liquid metal filler?
    Failing that, you'll have to rub them out with wet 'n' dry but that'll take ages.
    I really wouldn't waste time reading Punchsteve's signature. I have better uses of 5 minutes...!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by snock View Post
    Can the pits be filled with liquid metal filler?
    Failing that, you'll have to rub them out with wet 'n' dry but that'll take ages.
    Its good stuff alright I've used it to repair hard wearing parts of machines to good effect, but it is basically a 2 pack epoxy, not metal, so the bluing will not adhere to it like when the metal is heated and takes on the oil.
    Pro-Target 3 with a Silver Weaver.
    S200, tweakied, Ginb, with a Burris.
    B+C HW 95 special with a Burris.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by raisedbybrocks View Post
    Its good stuff alright I've used it to repair hard wearing parts of machines to good effect, but it is basically a 2 pack epoxy, not metal, so the bluing will not adhere to it like when the metal is heated and takes on the oil.
    Shame.

    Perhaps the best way is the longest way; wet 'n' dry through the grades.
    I really wouldn't waste time reading Punchsteve's signature. I have better uses of 5 minutes...!

  11. #11
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    There are a few methods that you could use to fill the pits after all rust has been removed. (some mentioned above)

    1) Soft solder.

    2) A hard solder such as silver solder or brazing.

    3) Welding.

    4) An epoxy body filler.

    Only the welding method will allow reblueing, as you are putting steel back in the holes.
    Silver solder and braze will blacken with brass black, but this will probably not match the blacking on the surrounding steel.
    Epoxy filler is the easiest, and once smoothed down could be painted.

    You might find a vintage cycle/motorcycle restoration service that could do the work for you, as the principle would be like restoring a pitted cycle/motorycle frame.

  12. #12
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    You need someone with a fast buffing machine, a complete set of abrasive wheels and hot bluing kit

    Its about an hour and a halfs work all in but obviously depending how deep the pits are you will change the dimensions of the work

    If you were closer I'd do it for you

    Richard

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the ideas, the pits aren't really deeper enough to fill but are deep enough to make rubbing them out buy hand very hard !

    Will have to see if my dad has got any buffing wheels as he has a lathe and all sorts of other wonderful bits and bobs !
    BSA Lightning XL 0.177 V-Mach Tune 3x9x40 IR

  14. #14
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    ...what he said, plus...

    Quote Originally Posted by Tantomurata View Post
    There are a few methods that you could use to fill the pits after all rust has been removed. (some mentioned above)

    1) Soft solder.

    2) A hard solder such as silver solder or brazing.

    3) Welding.

    4) An epoxy body filler.

    Only the welding method will allow reblueing, as you are putting steel back in the holes.
    Silver solder and braze will blacken with brass black, but this will probably not match the blacking on the surrounding steel.
    Epoxy filler is the easiest, and once smoothed down could be painted.

    You might find a vintage cycle/motorcycle restoration service that could do the work for you, as the principle would be like restoring a pitted cycle/motorycle frame.
    Totally agree with the above. There may also be an alternative. How about fitting a bull barrel ...like on the HW98..?

    Finners.
    Sh*t.....missed again!

  15. #15
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    You might try...

    a sleeve on the barrel and auto body filler then painting the comp tube. Maybe a camo finish to distract the eye from the scars?

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