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Thread: Deep rust pitting removal

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrikirkby View Post
    Sorry should of said, I have rubbed them down to bare metal with no rust but still have pitting all over and i just cant get rid off it apart from an angle grinder !!
    Can the pits be filled with liquid metal filler?
    Failing that, you'll have to rub them out with wet 'n' dry but that'll take ages.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by snock View Post
    Can the pits be filled with liquid metal filler?
    Failing that, you'll have to rub them out with wet 'n' dry but that'll take ages.
    Its good stuff alright I've used it to repair hard wearing parts of machines to good effect, but it is basically a 2 pack epoxy, not metal, so the bluing will not adhere to it like when the metal is heated and takes on the oil.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by raisedbybrocks View Post
    Its good stuff alright I've used it to repair hard wearing parts of machines to good effect, but it is basically a 2 pack epoxy, not metal, so the bluing will not adhere to it like when the metal is heated and takes on the oil.
    Shame.

    Perhaps the best way is the longest way; wet 'n' dry through the grades.
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  4. #4
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    There are a few methods that you could use to fill the pits after all rust has been removed. (some mentioned above)

    1) Soft solder.

    2) A hard solder such as silver solder or brazing.

    3) Welding.

    4) An epoxy body filler.

    Only the welding method will allow reblueing, as you are putting steel back in the holes.
    Silver solder and braze will blacken with brass black, but this will probably not match the blacking on the surrounding steel.
    Epoxy filler is the easiest, and once smoothed down could be painted.

    You might find a vintage cycle/motorcycle restoration service that could do the work for you, as the principle would be like restoring a pitted cycle/motorycle frame.

  5. #5
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    ...what he said, plus...

    Quote Originally Posted by Tantomurata View Post
    There are a few methods that you could use to fill the pits after all rust has been removed. (some mentioned above)

    1) Soft solder.

    2) A hard solder such as silver solder or brazing.

    3) Welding.

    4) An epoxy body filler.

    Only the welding method will allow reblueing, as you are putting steel back in the holes.
    Silver solder and braze will blacken with brass black, but this will probably not match the blacking on the surrounding steel.
    Epoxy filler is the easiest, and once smoothed down could be painted.

    You might find a vintage cycle/motorcycle restoration service that could do the work for you, as the principle would be like restoring a pitted cycle/motorycle frame.
    Totally agree with the above. There may also be an alternative. How about fitting a bull barrel ...like on the HW98..?

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  6. #6
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    You need someone with a fast buffing machine, a complete set of abrasive wheels and hot bluing kit

    Its about an hour and a halfs work all in but obviously depending how deep the pits are you will change the dimensions of the work

    If you were closer I'd do it for you

    Richard
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the ideas, the pits aren't really deeper enough to fill but are deep enough to make rubbing them out buy hand very hard !

    Will have to see if my dad has got any buffing wheels as he has a lathe and all sorts of other wonderful bits and bobs !
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