CCL or Tru-Oil for my Ginb Stock

[shepp1]

What would you recommend?
I have the stock here waiting for oiling.
Also is it worth using a grain sealer first and which of the two above oils give the less glossy finish?
Thanks
Andy

[jimcorbett]

Hi

I have used tru-oil and it works well. I found that if you follow the instructions you dont need to use grain sealer perhaps unless it is a new stock. Stain the wood darker than you want and then when you sand off it finishes in a good colour. You can get a matt/satin finish by using the very fine sand paper supplied after final oiling, which is what I did. Just follow the instructions carefully!

Regards

[tmstech]

I personally don't like the glossy finish of tru-oil and always use CCL on my stocks.

[jimcorbett]

I don't like a glossy finish either and as I said you can remove it after tru oiling with the cutting solution that they provide in the kits to leave a satin/matt finish.

[18 Wheeler]

The CCL kit does produce a nice finish, but is a lot of work. You'll need 6-10 coats, 1 a day, and to rub it in properly takes about 15-20 minutes, and then at least 10 days to allow the finish to fully harden.

Here are some examples of a CCL finish:
FWB 150: After 1st Oil only coat. "Glossy" after 10 coats. Knocked back to high lustre.
AA Walnut Stock: Before. After.


Tru-Oil is much easier IMO and as said above it's easy to knock back the glossy finish with some 2000+ grade paper, avoid using steel wool. CCL also produces a high shine finish when applied correctly, again it can be knocked back to a satin finish.
It doesn't produce the alkanet warm red finish, but there's no reason not to apply a couple of coats of alkanet oil, leave 48 hours and then start with the Tru-oil.
Tru-Oil instructions indicate you can apply coats 3 hours apart. Don't! Apply thin coats and leave each overnight.HTH

[MattyBoy]

The CCL kit does produce a nice finish, but is a lot of work. You'll need 6-10 coats, 1 a day, and to rub it in properly takes about 15-20 minutes, and then at least 10 days to allow the finish to fully harden.

Here are some examples of a CCL finish:
FWB 150: After 1st Oil only coat. "Glossy" after 10 coats. Knocked back to high lustre.
AA Walnut Stock: Before. After.


Tru-Oil is much easier IMO and as said above it's easy to knock back the glossy finish with some 2000+ grade paper, avoid using steel wool. CCL also produces a high shine finish when applied correctly, again it can be knocked back to a satin finish.
It doesn't produce the alkanet warm red finish, but there's no reason not to apply a couple of coats of alkanet oil, leave 48 hours and then start with the Tru-oil.
Tru-Oil instructions indicate you can apply coats 3 hours apart. Don't! Apply thin coats and leave each overnight.HTH

Hi Mate

if my CCL oil is going a bit viscous what can I add to let it down a bit? Mine seems too sticky in use

Lovely 150 btw

Thanks
Matty

[POK!]

For a matt finish on my Ginb I used Phillip's English walnut oil prep. It's blended with hardeners/driers and is very easy to apply. Stock is on HW100 in sig.

[18 Wheeler]

Hi Mate

if my CCL oil is going a bit viscous what can I add to let it down a bit? Mine seems too sticky in use

Lovely 150 btw

Thanks
Matty

You're applying it too thick. Been there, done that.
I used some white spirit and cloth to remove the sticky mess, left it for a day and then lightly sanded using 1000 grade paper.

When you're starting to build the finish, ie. are using the oil and hardener mix, it should feel dry after you've rubbed it in.

It does take a lot of time to produce a quality finish using CCL. 15-20 hours work over about 2+ weeks, and lots of elbow grease, then time for the finish to fully harden. It needs to be fully hard before knocking back the shine. I use brasso to go from gloss > lustre, then Birchwood Casey Stock Conditioning Wax to preserve and maintain that finish.

Each thin coat needs to be applied, lightly wiped down, left for 30 minutes and then rubbed in. So around an hour a day.

I suspect you can get the same finish with Tru-Oil, but it's been so long since I last used it I can't remember.

The Phillip's Oil recommended by Pok! looks good as well. Virtually a matt finish if that's what you're after.

There's a lot of myth surrounding magic stock finishes, most are simply an oil base (linseed, tung etc) with a hardener (Tru-Oil is Linseed, polymerised Oil ["resin"] and thinner I believe, whilst CCL is Linseed based). The thinner aids application and penetration.

[MattyBoy]

You're applying it too thick. Been there, done that.
I used some white spirit and cloth to remove the sticky mess, left it for a day and then lightly sanded using 1000 grade paper.

Hi Mate

My point is I know exactly how to apply the oil but it's got thicker in the bottle over the 18 months I have had it and it's too sticky to rub in easily.

Should I add White Spirit to the bottle - say 5% by volume?

Cheers
Matty

[gb68]

CCL oil everytime for me.
6 coats is enough for my stocks and takes around a week to finish. You can apply more if wanted.











Dries to a nice satin finish too.

[engraver]

You know why tru oil is called tru oil.

Because its truly awful stuff.

I would never disgrace a decent stock with the stuff.

Oh and it stinks

CCl everytime Ive said it over and over.

What good is a shiny stock?

When you put a mark on it which you will no matter how hard you try, you will have to take the lot back and refinish the whole stock.

When you put a matt finish on a stock its easy repairable.

[shepp1]

CCL oil everytime for me.
6 coats is enough for my stocks and takes around a week to finish. You can apply more if wanted.











Dries to a nice satin finish too.

Those stocks look fantastic, did you put the oil straight on the bare wood or did you apply a grain sealer first?

[tmstech]

you know why tru oil is called tru oil.

Because its truly awful stuff.

I would never disgrace a decent stock with the stuff.

Oh and it stinks:d

ccl everytime ive said it over and over.

What good is a shiny stock?

When you put a mark on it which you will no matter how hard you try, you will have to take the lot back and refinish the whole stock.

When you put a matt finish on a stock its easy repairable.

^^ this ^^

[gb68]

Those stocks look fantastic, did you put the oil straight on the bare wood or did you apply a grain sealer first?

Straight on to the wood.
I've used a grain sealer before and didn't much like it.
Once I've finished a stock, I take it down to 600 grit and apply CCL conditioning oil with my hands. The first coat sinks in without the need to take the excess off really. After that I leave the oil on for anything between 30 and 45 minutes, work the excess in really hard with the heel of your palm, then wipe off what's left. Leave it for 24 hours and repeat.

Like I said, I usually stop at 6 or 7 coats but you can give it more if you prefer. Leave it to harden for 48 hours and apply a couple of coats of wax and buff.

It really is easy stuff to use, and easy to put right if it goe's tits up.

[tmstech]

Straight on to the wood.
I've used a grain sealer before and didn't much like it.
Once I've finished a stock, I take it down to 600 grit and apply CCL conditioning oil with my hands. The first coat sinks in without the need to take the excess off really. After that I leave the oil on for anything between 30 and 45 minutes, work the excess in really hard with the heel of your palm, then wipe off what's left. Leave it for 24 hours and repeat.

Like I said, I usually stop at 6 or 7 coats but you can give it more if you prefer. Leave it to harden for 48 hours and apply a couple of coats of wax and buff.

It really is easy stuff to use, and easy to put right if it goe's tits up.

This is my method too, seems to take the oil perfectly, no need for a finer grit in my opinion. I normally only do 4-5 coats though and finish in BC conditioning or CCL wax.

Great work on that stock