Congrats with the junior! I want me one of those too!
Stripping and rebuilding is actually quite simple even if the gun is mechanically advanced.
Take some photos of it when you take it apart to be sure. also make sure you do not
loose any of the clips you have to take of. I also just watched the strip and rebuild video
on youtube, no worries!
There is no need to lube the inside as it has a spring seal as a car cylinder would have.
It will probably just scrape of the lube again.
So said I did actually give my FWB 80 a tiny amount when I stripped and rebuilt it, I did
not intend to do so, habit just got the best of me. It dieseled some for 50+ shots which
only lead to me having to clean it a lot and now wanting to strip it again.
Give the rest a thin! coat of moly, I am sure the Feinwerkbau grease is fine to.
When I get new seals and spring for my 300s I will not put any lube inside the cylinder
I got two FWB 300s guns one is tuned, I am not sure which spring it has, but it is clocked
at the same velocity as the Maccari springs. The other one is original.
The original one is much easier to shoot at long range. They both are able to produce around
5mm groups at 45m, but the tuned one is much more hold sensitive at that range.
While the original one can do this over and over the tuned one torques a little when fired and
there is often one pellet escaping the group of five. The original spring being two pieces might
be what makes the gun torque less.
I am putting an original spring into it again as it is simply better. The original one has about
3 cm more of a drop at that range compared to the tuned one. At 10+20m, there is no
noticeable difference in accuracy.
As long as you only want to shoot targets the original spring is more than adequate the purpose,
B.R. Kris
Wanted part new/used: Model 65, 80, 90 part 1600.178.1 Führungsachse, hinten ø 4,615 Guide axle, rear, ø 4,615