Relum 527 - leather seal replacement, quick bit of advice need please.

[capt hindsight]

Got the Relum in bits on the breakfast bar (I know these guns get a bit of stick but I do like them, I managed to dismantle it last night with using only a swiss army knife - so easy!).

The piston seal is kaput, I have a spare but can't see how the brass plug that fits through the centre of the seal is removed or how the replacement is then attached to the head of the piston, it isn't threaded - surely it doesn't just push in?

I've not soaked the leather seal in oil yet as per the instructions on the packet, I was hoping to fit it to the piston first then soak overnight, then reassemble.

[DCL_dave]

Think the Relum seal is riveted on...check out Protek for a new rivet if you have to buy one.

[capt hindsight]

Thanks for the fast reply!

A replacement brass pin came with the seal but not threaded - could well be a rivet.

Can this be blundered as a DIY job?

edit - it does say rivet on Protek's web page.

[DCL_dave]

Thanks for the fast reply!

A replacement brass pin came with the seal but not threaded - could well be a rivet.

Can this be blundered as a DIY job?

edit - it does say rivet on Protek's web page.

I'll be completely honest with you, I have never fitted a seal to a Relum!

You would assume that the peened edge of the rivet would be on the inside edge and so may be accessible through the back of the piston?...whether you can drive this back through with a long thin punch or will have to drill it off I don't know?...best wait for someone with the knowledge to chip in.

[capt hindsight]

so much for being able to fix it with a swiss army knife then!

I don't have workshop tools, I may just clean it up and make a trip to my local gunsmith to fit the seal and new spring (the new spring is about 2inches longer than the one that's come out, I think a spring compressor could be needed anyway.

[Phil Russell]

It is possible to drive the rivet out from the inside of the piston with a punch. Just position the rivet head over a hole in some wood and use a punch a tad smaller than the rivet stem diameter so that you (maybe) can salvage the rivet for reuse. This should remove the rivet complete with the 'expandable' circumference that secures the rivet in place. If you do get the rivet out in reasonable condition, to reuse then get a steel rod with a rounded end and use the rounded end to expand the rivet at the end of the piston ... keeping the rivet head on a flat steel surface. Once 'rounded' a bit, a thump with a larger flat ended punch will secure the rivet.
Good luck,
Cheers, Phil

[bighit]

when I did a relum seal I drifted the old rivet out. fitted the seal and the new rivet was riveted by using a steel rod that I had ground to a rounded point then hammered into the hole.

was years ago.

I was told a large Philips screw driver could be used to rivet it in. the Philips cross bit hammered in the back of the rivet. but make sure is not too narrow or you will drift it back out.

[Solvo]

I hope I'm not the only one around here with an engineering background who winces at the idea of using a screwdriver for riveting!

Stick to the ground metal rod.

[bighit]

I hope I'm not the only one around here with an engineering background who winces at the idea of using a screwdriver for riveting!

Stick to the ground metal rod.

use what you have at hand. did you not read he has little tools and was trying to do it all with a Swiss army knife?

[Solvo]

Yes; I read it, And you're quite right. I just prefer to stick to the idea of "Just because you can doesn't mean you should".
Though i get the feeling we may be giving Victorinox and Wenger ideas for their next line up Think it's the only thing missing from the centenary which doesn't need running water.

I do agree that given proper consideration you could get away with using other tools for such a purpose. Just not something i would do for fear of being lynched by a mob of enraged relatives & teachers!

[Phil Russell]

I hope I'm not the only one around here with an engineering background who winces at the idea of using a screwdriver for riveting!

Stick to the ground metal rod.

I guess you are not from Birmingham. It is well known that a 'Birmingham Screwdriver' is a hammer'
Cheers, Phil
PS ... and yes, I am a Brummie.

[Airsporter1st]

Yes; I read it, And you're quite right. I just prefer to stick to the idea of "Just because you can doesn't mean you should".
Though i get the feeling we may be giving Victorinox and Wenger ideas for their next line up Think it's the only thing missing from the centenary which doesn't need running water.

I do agree that given proper consideration you could get away with using other tools for such a purpose. Just not something i would do for fear of being lynched by a mob of enraged relatives & teachers!

You should try reading the Sticky about airgun strips by Guy - ggggr. He performs wonders with very little in the way of workshop tools and has successfully brought many a basket case back to life.

[capt hindsight]

I guess you are not from Birmingham. It is well known that a 'Birmingham Screwdriver' is a hammer'
Cheers, Phil
PS ... and yes, I am a Brummie.

Me too, that explains why the screwdriver idea is so appealing.

Just spoke to my RFD who is a gun smith and he said he always bought a new piston with seal already attached when they needed changing, this was going back to when he sold them new and the bits were 'dirt cheap'.

The old rivet is now off but kaput.

Its been suggested to use a round headed bolt and a nut (screwdriver type head) if I can find one, failing that, its time for the 'Birmingham screwdriver' method!

[venoman]

TR Robb sells a PTFE piston seal conversion for the Relum the seal is held on with a screw and nylock nut.

[capt hindsight]

Thanks for the info.