If it moves.....shoot it!..If it don't move.....shoot it in case it tries to!!!
Light travels faster than sound....this is why I appear bright until you hear me speak!!!
ive polished a few guns/scopes up over the years,1200/1500 grade wet/dry paper followed by buffing sissal/tight leaf mop using correct cutting compounds/waxes.
caustic soda will corrode/eat alloy(used it for eatching bare alloy before painting) depending on the mixture BUT it has to get past the anodizing first
i can also confirm the heat will remove some anidizing to a point as had 11 guns destroyed in a fire a few years back mind you i still had to sand/cut past the hardening before they would buff.
Drain cleaner works very well. 50% (sodium hydroxyde) drain cleaner to water.( diluting slows the process so you can catch it at the right time) Add the drain cleaner to the water not the other way round in a plastic tub. Put your anodised bits in. Keep agitating it as it looks like its not removing the anodising. Roughly 2 -5 mins later itll be a mat silver. Take out and neutralise in water. Polish or brushed finish looks good but thats a personal preference. Gloves and goggle are a very good idea just incase !
Atb Shaun
take care with caustic it will dissolve ally but it is the way to remove anodising as it dissolves the outer hardened layer allowing the dye to wash out of the anodised layer
to strip I use 200g of caustic pearls /liter and heat mix to about 40-50 degrees
mixing caustic with water will cause the solution to heat up I use a tooth brush to scrubb the part in the solution but if suspended in it it will also come clean
fit stainless grub screws to any threads as it will eat metal away so threads will be a looser fit