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    Thumbs up Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

    Here is the link to the Index that Phil has done. http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ts-Guide-Index And check out this thread, particularly the info that Phil has put up about springs. http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ng-data-thread Ok--here it is. I apologise for it being simple and not having any pics as Im a computer idiot and cant do links either.
    I dont have a spring compressor or a vice so we are talking basic here.
    TOOLS-- a small hammer. Buy yourself a set of pin punches from Chronos or the like (about £9 for 8),screw drivers and posi,s, A flat stubby screwdriver with a fork ground in it, a small block of wood (to press barrel plungers in with ), A larger piece of wood (to place on the floor when you refit mainsprings), files and needle files, some dowel (to wrap rag or kitchen paper round to clean out cylinder and piston), cotton buds (for delicate places) ,small paint brush (for painting gn paste onto stuff),solvent ( I use meths and then isopropyl alcohol from the chemists), some latex gloves to keep handies clean( guarantee you will remove them at 1st problem), Rigger gloves (to push down when fitting mainsprings) AND a bit of steel tube with slots cut in it so you can push mainsprings and guides down and push pins through the cylinder. Its not ideal but safer than screwdrivers. I got some bike saddle tube and ground slots in it. For smaller diana,s and webleys, a socket is better. On to part two.
    Last edited by ggggr; 22-02-2013 at 05:48 PM. Reason: to make a sticky and ad a thumbs up motif.

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    Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt2)

    READ PART 1! These will be basic strips and I hope people will put up pics and feedback later + pm me for any corrections. I am going to do these from memory so some stuff Ive done, Im not confident enough to do a strip on from memory (diana G4 pistols). Other stuff Im hoping that people will post the stripdown guides that came with the guns(Airsporter and webley hurricane and tempest come to mind).
    I assume that when stripped the guns will be cleaned and lubricated and put back together. You will just have to watch how the triggers go when you take apart. I suggest that when the gun is stripped, that if the cylinder end plug was tight or the washer on the guide tube, that they are deburred. I also suggest looking closely at the hole that the pin goes through on the cylinder and deburr that to stop it from damaging piston washers on the way in or out.
    On to part 3

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    Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (part 3)

    READ PT1 AND 2.
    BASIC strip for break barrel airguns.
    Remove sights and put in a tin or box. This applies to all bits you remove. You can put them in pellet tins (stock screws,trigger bits,pivot pins etc). Undo stock screws and remove action from stock. Remove pin/screw from cocking arm and then slide it from barrel and cylinder. Just break barrel a little and depress barrel plunger with small block of wood and knock barrel pivot pin out,gently releasing pressure on block of wood so plunger and spring dont fly. Remove trigger bits and cylinder end cap and then you are ready for the cylinder. Place your cylinder on your big bit of wood,breech jaws down,then using your tube with a slot in, push down with your rigger glove on the tube to compress the mainspring and guide and push out the cylinder end pin. (helps if you put your gut over the hand you are pushing down with). Slowly release weight and the spring and guide should come up. If they dont, then keep the end of the cylinder pointed into a rag in a safe direction as sometimes the endplugs or guides are tight. You should now be able to slide the piston out and get to the piston washer. SPECIFIC GUNS COMING UP NEXT! It will be Diana22/23, webley junior,jaguar,ranger strip.

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    An idiots guide to classsic airgun strips (pt4)

    READ FIRST TWO POSTS. The Diana 22/23 +Webley junior/jaguar/ranger strip. These are all more or less the same gun except some have pins instead of nuts and bolts and different way of holding the piston washer on. You may remove the sights to prevent breakage. Undo the front 2 stock screws and the one to the front of the triggr guard and remove action from stock. Unscrew (remove pin) from cocking arm. I use a screwdriver with a gap ground into the middle of the blade to undo the nut. This nut is about 5/16 OD and is tapped 3/16 bsf if you need to make one up as they go missing a lot. Do the same with the barrel pivot. If you want to remove the plunger on the cylinder you will have to undo the little grubscrew and it may be peened over. remove the plunger and spring and clean up. If this spring needs replacing,better to take it to local shop to find match or send it to Nibbs otherwise he will send you the wrong one(they sent me two wrong ones).Using a small screwdriver, hook trigger spring of tang on end cap. You may have to tap endcap with a punch to remove from cylinder. Triggers sometimes seize to pivot pin and may need "plus gas" to free off. Undo pivot and remove trigger. Clean any old grease you can see in the back of the cylinder because this sometimes gets under the sleeve holding the spring in when it starts to move. Next find a socket that will fit on the sleeve and an extension bar to put on it. GO TO NEXT POST.

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    An idiots guide --Diana 22/ webleys strip (pt2)

    You now put your cylinder breech jaws down onto a piece of wood and push down onto the sleeve with the socket and extension bar until you see the locking tang on the sleeve move in the recess in the cylinder and then you flick it with a small screwdriver and slowly release pressure. The sleeve,guide and mainspring should all come out. Ease piston out with a screwdriver or rod and inspect the piston washer and whee the cocking arm pushes against. The piston washers are held on either by a screw or a special nut (time for the screwdiver with the gap again) onto thread on the piston. If all looks ok then you have got away with it. If the nut is all bashed,you can try to grip it in vice and unscrew it. Where the cocking arm pushes is often worn as its very thin and may result in the piston not going far enough back to cock the gun (other causes being worn slot on piston rod,worn trigger or small screw being put in cocking arm instead of proper bolt or pin). If its bad then a complete piston and washer set up is about £22 at Nibbs which seems ok compared to £14 for the piston washer set up. If its your only gun it may be worth paying the money for the piece of mind knowing you will not have to do it again. GO TO PART 3

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    An idiots guide--diana 22/webleys strip

    So now everything is clean and lubed ready to go together. If you want to change breech washer, now is a good time to do it while you have room to work. They take the rubber webley washer ,although Diana 23 I did had a thinner washer than other Ive done,(rounded side facing barrel) or make one out of leather by cutting round a small socket and putting hole in middle. I soak them in almond oil. When the gun is together you may have to keep poking the hole open for the first few days till it settles in. Replace your spring and plunger and nip up grub screw (till it locks plunger and then back it off) I had some 4ba brass bar and just cut a length of this and cut a slot in top for small screwdriver. Piston,spring and guide back in cylinder and then the sleeve (NEXT BIT TRICKY) push on sleeve with bar and socket and then turn it to locate on recess when far enough down. THERE IS A LOT OF PRELOAD ON THESE SMALL SPRINGS. Offer triggerup and replace pivot. Locate endcap and push in till you can just get trigger spring in and then tap home. Replace barrel and then cocking arm and then fit back in stock and replace sights. Ive seen a lot of these where the trigger AND/OR piston rod is worn--filing them square again will get the gun working but keep an eye on it for safety. God Im sick of this already. Diana 25/27 next.

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    Strip and rebuild an Excellent Gevaret pump up rifle

    STRIP AND REBUILD AN EXCELLENT GEVARET PNEUMATIC RIFLE

    The Excellent Gevaret rifles were made in Sweden from the early 1900s. This strip is for a model CII from around 1945. Ammunition is 5.4mm ball, which seems difficult to find but may be available in Sweden. The strip is based on my experiences in getting an auction buy working. When we got the rifle it would not cock and the pump, which is basically a bicycle pump, was not working.

    Strip: Unscrew the pump cylinder complete with pump handle. Remove the single bolt that holds the stock to the action and remove the action. The trigger block and trigger simply unscrews complete with the exhaust valve and plunger. Collect any large shim washers that separate the trigger block from the sliding loading cover. The cover just slips off.
    To access the inlet valve, simply unscrew the valve from where the pump cylinder screwed in. This reveals a valve consisting of a bicycle tyre valve. Ours was an old type with a bit of rubber tubing as the valve seal but I believe other types were sometimes fitted.
    To strip the pump, remove the pump handle by undoing the screw on the handle top. Unscrew the top end of the pump cylinder and pull out the pump and rod / washer assembly ... just like a bicycle pump. Put the long spring to one side. Note that the pump washer is fitted to a brass plunger that can move in and out of the end of the rod. Note the two small holes in the rod where the washer assembly screws in and the small hole in the plunger in the centre of the washer. These holes allow air to enter the pump cylinder when the pump is withdrawn, but air is prevented from leaving the cylinder by a simple valve that is closed by air pressure when the pump is pushed down. To access this valve, simply unscrew the washer and plunger assembly from the rod .. there is a recess in the end of the pump rod and a rubber disc at its base.
    The exhaust valve seal is clearly seen on the end of the plunger coming out of the trigger block.

    Basically, that is it. You can strip the trigger block down if you wish. To check it is functioning, push the cocking plunger in and see if the sear engages. If it does, all is most likely OK, but if you wish to dismantle it then unscrew the cocking plunger cover to reveal the end of the valve rod. The trigger is retained by a simple spring and a pivot screw. The trigger has a sear cut into it. Unscrew the nut and remove the valve rod. Be prepared for two springs and a spacer. Clean and refit.

    Rebuild: If needed, make and fit a new leather pump washer. Instructions on making leather washers are on the BBS. I replaced the small valve at the end of the pump rod with a disc of 3mm rubber sheet. I fitted a new exhaust valve seal, again from 3mm rubber sheet. Getting the latter thickness was a matter of trial and error. Too thin and the valve does not seal when the trigger is set, too thick and you cannot cock the trigger. The inlet valve rubber was replaced by a bit of silicon rubber tubing (1.5mm internal diameter) obtained from a fishing tackle shop where it is sold for fishermen to put on their floats.
    Rebuild is a simple reversal of the strip. My first attempts failed due to air leaks in various places. I cured these by using plumbers ptfe tape around all threaded assemblies, including the thread on the cycle valve that acts as the inlet valve.
    When screwing the trigger block back, remember that when mounted in the stock, the trigger block is in line with the action. The swinging loading port also needs to be a fair air seal against the barrel breech. The position of all these components is critical to getting the exhaust valve to seal and for air to transfer to the barrel. I needed to make an extra shim washer from a bit of beer can in order to get the exhaust valve to function properly and the loading port to seal effectively with the trigger block in the correct position. As I said ... trial and error solved it.

    Cheers, Phil

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    My advice would be to take photos or make sketches of everything before and after it is dismantled. Also, I label everything with a pice of sticky tape so that I am not left wondering what pin goes where

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    Wish i had your Knowladge may be if i keeep reading it will come Many Many THANKS for all your info

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    Idiots guide to Webley tracker strip

    Just an update. I recently did a Tracker and it strips the same as an Osprey (check earlier in the guide). The only differences I could see ( in the strip) is that the Tracker had a piston weight in it and had a seal on the front of the piston head instead of the 2 ptfe rings of the Osprey. On the gun I did the safety catch was missing and the sear spring. I replaced the sear spring with one from a Webley Victor, which hooks under the trigger pin. You could use this mod if you want to leave off the safety catch on a Hawk mk2, Hawk mk3, Vulcan and Osprey. As I dont like safety catches anyway, especially automatic ones, this seems a good idea. I think the added bonus will be that the sear spring will last longer as the catch is not "sawing" the spring like normal, where it hooks over the catch. It also makes the trigger a lot easier to assemble and you can leave out the front of the three pins and keep it as spare.
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    Idiots guide to Diana/Milbro mk1v/G4 strip (pt1)

    Remove the two trigger guard screws and the trigger guard. Remove the two screws that you can now see that hold the action to the frame. Watch out for the trigger spring as you lift the action out although it may remain in the frame. Undo cocking arm pivot lockscrew and remove pivot. Undo barrel pivot lockscrew and remove barrel pivot. Lift barrel and cocking arm away. If you need to change the breech washer do it now. Remove sear spring and then the trigger and sear pins and the trigger and sear. You may have a bit of trouble either getting the pins out or back in as they are sometimes popped with a centre punch to retain them. Push endcap against a piece of wood and squeeze together the tangs of the retaining circlip and then let off pressure so endcap comes away with circlip and probably mainspring. When you pull the piston back to remove it, the cocking arm should lift out once its far enough back in the cocking slot. Remove piston and change piston washer if needed. The last one I did was leather, held on by a small countersunk screw. Clean and lube everything and place piston in cylinder so you can get cocking arm in and then push all the way in. Go to part two.
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    Idiots guide to Diana/Milbro mkIV/ G4 strip (pt2)

    Place the mainspring on the guidetube/ endcap and place it into the cylinder. Compress the spring by pushing the endcap against a piece of wood and then squeeze the circlip until the endcap enter the cylinder enough so you can release the circlip and it loctes in its slot. Replace trigger and its pivot and then the sear and its pivot pin. You might have to fiddle about a bit to get this in right but dont use brute force. Replace barrel and cocking arm and the replace the pivot and lock screw. Replace the pivot and lockscrew on the cocking arm. If the sear spring has not remained in the frame, slip it into the frame and drop the action into the frame so the little pin on the sear enters the spring. Locate the trigger spring between the trigger and the hole in the frame at the back of the trigger. Replace two screws that hold action to frame and then the triggr guard and its two screws.
    I dont really like these pistols. The foresight will be an absolute swine to move as it will probaly have never been moved and you will have no chance tapping it with a bit of hard wood. If you are determined to try to move it, put some easing oil on it for a few days first. |Just about ok for shooting tins at 6 yards. You can often see a pellet swerve to one side.
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    Crosman 140 pump-up

    CROSMAN 140

    A fair – good example of this pump-up rifle in .22 but it would not pump-up. This model is an early one with a simple ‘turn and pull back’ rotating breech sleeve as on the 1377 pistol
    An exploded diagram is available from the Crosman site.

    Strip:
    Remove safety catch by turning it to the neutral position (just over half way) and push out. The safety catch plunger pops into the vacant hole but will not fall out.
    Undo stock bolt on underside of stock and remove action from stock. Do not lose the washer for the stock bolt.
    Remove the breech cover by removing the small bolt and sliding the breech cover off the barrel.
    Look into the breech and note a screw bolt that secures the barrel to the cylinder. It can be a little awkward to undo this without removing the barrel end plug and loading probe but it can be done. I found it easiest to first release the barrel end bolt as: Undo and remove the bolt at the rearmost end of the barrel. Take care to support the barrel. Now push back the loading probe as far as it will go and use a small screwdriver to undo the screw visible inside the breech. It will not come all the way out because of the loading probe but it will undo enough to release the barrel. Simply pull barrel backwards to free from the muzzle support. When you remove the barrel, do not lose the transfer port seal that connects the cylinder to the barrel: a small ‘top hat and seal’. Put it somewhere safe.
    If you need to remove the bolt/probe to fit a new O ring you must now remove a plastic insert that the barrel securing bolt passed through. To do this, I found it easiest to replace the bolt through the insert (from the top) then use a drift to gently tap the bolt up and away, taking the insert with it. The barrel end cap then comes free and the bolt can be slid out.
    Remove the roll pin that secures the barrel / cylinder end cap at the muzzle. Remove end cap and pull the pump assembly free together with the pump handle. Take care not to lose the steel pin that connects the pump handle to the pump as it is quite loose.
    You are now left with the main cylinder assembly containing the valve work complete with trigger assembly
    Remove trigger assembly by removing the two screw bolts. Nothing will ‘ping’ away as the trigger is a self contained unit.
    Using a suitable drift, tap out the pin at the breech end of the cylinder (the trigger assembly fitted over it), noting that the bottom end that the trigger fitted over is serrated. Tap it out from the top.
    The hammer assembly can now be removed... in order, end plug, spring, spacer and a pin hammer through a sleeve. Note the spacer has a tapered end that faces the end plug.
    The main valve assembly is held by the long bolt that secured the stock. There are no flats on this to help removal but it unscrews. I clamped it in a rubber faced vice and turned the cylinder to do this.
    You can now push the valve assembly out of the cylinder, towards the muzzle. The main valve body comes out first followed by the blow-off exhaust valve assembly.
    The main valve seals to the cylinder by an O ring. Replace if necessary. Ours was flat and hard so was replaced. The main valve is actually two halves: unscrew the parts. They seal by another O ring that is compressed between them. Replace if needed. Inside is the main valve spring and the valve head. I did not need to replace the valve head. Reassemble.
    Turn now to the blow-off valve; brass about 1cm long that fits inside a metal sleeve. There is another O ring on this valve; replace if necessary. Now look inside this blow-off valve and note that there is an internal O ring (or quad seal) that seals the probe on the main valve assembly that slides within the blow-off valve. It is a bit fiddly to replace it but it may be necessary.
    Once this is done that’s it ... all done and ready to rebuild.

    Rebuild:
    Assembly valve unit and slide into cylinder: steel sleeve with blow-off valve towards breech. Push into place; it cannot go too far. Make sure the transfer port to the blow off valve sleeve is uppermost.
    Replace the stock securing bolt. It holds the main valve in place.
    Replace the hammer assembly and tap the serrated pin into position.
    Replace pump and pump handle assembly and the end cap.
    Replace the transfer port seal and place barrel in position. Tighten barrel screw inside the breech. If you removed the bolt assembly, replace it now. Replace barrel securing bolt at the end of the action. Replace sliding breech cover onto bolt.
    Replace trigger assembly.
    Replace action in stock and replace safety catch.

    Job done.
    Cheers, Phil

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    LIMIT GAT type piston

    LIMIT GAT TYPE PISTOL

    The pistol stripped is marked ‘LIMIT’ and ‘Made in England’ on top of the chamber. The guide may well apply to other Gat types but I cannot guarantee this.
    According to Hiller the LIMIT is identical to the Diana 2 pistol, but the latter has the name Diana and the Huntress symbol on the chamber.
    The pistol here was very low on power so clearly needed some attention.

    Strip:
    You do not need to remove the pistol stock to access the power plant. I found it easiest to clamp a piece of dowel vertically in the jaws on a vice and simply slot the uncocked pistol over the dowel, muzzle up. Obviously, remove the loading prod first (a new seal for the probe can be made from a thin leather disc or an O ring).

    Holding the push-in shroud, undo the knurled nut at the end of the barrel. This holds the spring tension so expect it to give suddenly.
    Remove the push-in shroud and spring. Remove pistol from the dowel.
    Pull the trigger and push the barrel assembly out of the back of the pistol. Note the piston washer on the rear end. If you need to replace this washer proceed as follows: the end knob that the probe screws into will unscrew from the barrel to allow access to the piston sealing washer. Mine was quite firm so I held the barrel carefully in a padded vice and turned the knob with a rubber glove. With the knob free from the barrel the piston washer lifts off. Mine had disintegrated so I made a new one from leather. It is a simple disc shape. Aim for a good fit but not too tight.
    Look into the pistol barrel housing and retrieve a metal washer and round leather sealing washer that the barrel passed through. The spring seats against the washer and the leather sealing washer seals around the barrel to prevent air leaks when the trigger is pulled and the shroud and barrel rush forward.
    I made a new seal from leather ... take care it is not too tight a fit around the barrel or it will slow the action down.
    Fixed inside the action at about the half way point is another assembly through which the barrel passes and upon which the spring sits. Mine appeared to have a seal there but I did not remove it as it seemed to give some grip to the barrel.
    Trigger assembly: Mine was OK but if you need to strip it proceed as follows: Remove the screw that holds the trigger guard and unhook the front of the guard from the action. Push out the two pins that hold the grip and remove the action. With a small punch simply push out the small pin that holds the trigger in place. Then push out the pin that holds the sear ... take care not to lose the small sear spring that fits between the sear and the pistol body.

    Rebuild:
    If you stripped the trigger, rebuild it first and fit the body into the grip. Place the sear into the body and carefully locate the sear spring in the small hole on top of the sear and slide the spring under the body tube. Now fit the sear pin; this will hold the sear and spring in place.
    Fit the trigger, making sure that when you pull the trigger the sear moves so that it will free the barrel assembly. Replace action in grip and replace the two pins.
    Replace the barrel assembly complete with piston washer; pull trigger to allow barrel assembly to pass over the trigger.
    Add the barrel sealing washer over the barrel followed by the metal washer.
    Replace pistol on the dowel.
    Add the spring and pop-in barrel shroud. Pull down on the shroud to compress the spring a little and allow the end of the barrel to come through the shroud. Fit the knurled nut and tighten
    During all of this, add suitable lubrication to the sealing washers. I used SM50 but I suspect that a good oil would do as there is no risk of dieseling.

    Push barrel in to cock the pistol, add pellet, secure with loading probe and fire (safely of course).

    Cheers, Phil

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    ASI Magnum strip (pt 1)

    A very nice chap off here sent me one of these to play with. I did not try it before the strip and the action was already out of stock but here goes. Undo the 2 front stock screws on the underside of the fore end and the two screws on the trigger guard. To remove the trigger guard you have to pull the safety lever on the trigger unit down and wangle the guard off. Take the action out of the stock and watch out for the piece of tube that sits in the stock near the stock bolt. replace it now so you wont forget it. Undo the barrel pivot bolt and lift out the barrel and breech block, complete with the cocking arm which is rivetted. Watch out for the 2 plastic shims. If you want to remove the plunger and its spring, you will need to drift out the sleeve that the barrel pivot goes through and the shims go on. clean, grease and replace this now. There are two pins at the rear of the cylinder that hold the trigger unit and end cap. Drift these out and remove cap and trigger unit. The next step is VERY IMPORTANT-----There is a scope arrester on the scope rails---you need to undo this screw before you attempt to strip the gun further. Once you have done this, get your bit of tube etc to push against the guide/block that the stock lug screw goes into. When you are pushing against this block, use a spanner to undo the lug and when it is undone, release the pressure on the block and the block/guide,mainspring and piston can be withdrawn. Go to part 2
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