Hi, if you look at this;

http://www.gunspares.co.uk/shopdispl...&cat=Mk3+Rifle

And this;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...57623212067613

You will see the trigger / sear mechanism is similar in many ways to a BSA pre-war...the "adjustment" screw actually is tapered and just disengages the sear (same effect as pulling the trigger) as it is screwed in and the effective diameter increases.

You should be able to get a crisp breaking trigger that is predicable, but these designs just will not get down to the weights / feel of a compound lever two stage job. That is not to say they are bad, just different, and need a bit of practise to get used to.

Also, because of the design, it is not a good idea to try and go really light on the pull, as if the piston rod / sear notches are not in perfect order, or if the piston rod is slightly loose, then it can "slip" and cause both an accidental discharge, or even chip or shatter the sear face, which is hardened and tempered so fairly brittle in respect of shocks.

If possible (if the trigger feels "gritty") , remove, or get someone who knows if you prefer, the trigger and sear and give it a gentle clean up with a fine stone..ONLY do this if you know what you are doing!...this can transform the "break"point.

Also, try gentle increasing pressure on the trigger, whilst keeping it on target, until you get a feel for the pull weight and break point, after a couple of hundred shots it will be second nature, and you may be pleasantly surprised.

ATB, Ed