Originally Posted by
TonyL
I know people have played with bearing arrangements at both ends of the spring for this reason. But many say not worthwhile and the bearings get hammered too much. I think the idea of "plain" bearings would be preferable...So, at each end of (properly finished and polished) the spring, how about a polished steel washer, Delrin in the middle and another polished steel outer?
I fitted a similar arrangement to my Diana Model 50, 3 polished steel washers at either end of the spring, of which the spring ends where polished aswell, I used to fit a similar arrangement to high powered Airsoft rifles, it gave no torque twist at all and the fps variance was down to 2fps over a 20 shot string.
I only removed the system as it cut the size of spring I could fit, and as the TP is so long, plus a mahoosive bucket of a load tap at the other end, I need all the spring I can get to keep the fpe above 8
On the TP size thing, again in the Model 50, I made a 2 stage sort of TP sleeve as I was experiencing piston bounce and had no suitable way to add weight back into the piston.... its 26.5mm over all not including the the load tap, for the first 10mm I drilled the sleeve out to 3mm, then for the remainder I drilled it to 2.5mm, the lead-in on the 3mm end was dressed out to a trumpet shape...... fpe remained the same but the piston bounce was gone making the shot cycle nicer.... far easier to keep on target on follow through etc.
Also a top tip for those looking to fill up lost volume on the seal face that haven't gone to the effort of making a O ring head.... I used to use this on Airsoft guns of all types for the same reason as I use it in Air guns, including full auto guns, so I know it takes a hell of a lot of punishment and not fail....... fill the screw slot, lug depression etc with several coats of liquid electrical tape, available from all good www sale sites, applied with the tip of a screw driver and left to set for a day or two it cures soft and pliable, and quite thin so can be built up to a fair depth, yet hard/strong enough to take the hammering that your average piston face goes through, if the surface is cleaned with spirits it stays stuck pretty much indefinitely and the best thing is if you need to remove the seal again for any reason it just, peels off with some help with a knife.... just thought I'd pass that on
ATB
Sean
Slowly morphing into an RWS/Diana/Original fanboy.
Definitely a springer fanboy.