HW77K .22, HW100KT .22, HW95K .22. AA TX200 MK3 .22. AA S410 MK3 .177. HW80 .25 HW30S .22. Pistols: Walther CP88 .177, Hatsan Mod25 Supercharger .22, HW45 Silver Star .177, Webley Alecto .177, SMK Victory CP2 .22
for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/
HW77K .22, HW100KT .22, HW95K .22. AA TX200 MK3 .22. AA S410 MK3 .177. HW80 .25 HW30S .22. Pistols: Walther CP88 .177, Hatsan Mod25 Supercharger .22, HW45 Silver Star .177, Webley Alecto .177, SMK Victory CP2 .22
HW77K .22, HW100KT .22, HW95K .22. AA TX200 MK3 .22. AA S410 MK3 .177. HW80 .25 HW30S .22. Pistols: Walther CP88 .177, Hatsan Mod25 Supercharger .22, HW45 Silver Star .177, Webley Alecto .177, SMK Victory CP2 .22
Not really, Chris, it's just one of those ongoing projects that started with a bare action and a trigger block, and is being built up as and when I get time.
I still have to decide whether to set it up for the bell target or the Quigley bucket :-
image.jpg
I may do a little demonstration at the next Bash if there's enough interest, Mark.
But in the meantime I've found out that you have to remove all the variables from the process to get the best results.
I've stopped trying to fume blue in acid fumes as it's a bit hit and miss and I now use an Amonium Chloride/Water solution painted on the metal to rust it.
Once painted with Amonium Chloride I place the piece in my thermostatically controlled damp box which I keep turned on for the duration of the bluing process so that it always remains at a constant temperature.
With this setup I can form rust on a piece in three hours, so I can easily work my day round the rusting and carding.
The only other tip I can give is if you build a boiling tank using a 3KW immersion heater element then a tank capacity of 6-7 Litres of water seems about idea even though it takes 15 minutes to reach boiling point.
All the best Mick