HW35 mods?

[Shed tuner]

Checked for screw interference, can’t see any. 4mm approx from end of cocking lever to piston slot cutout when uncocked. approx 5mm from piston skirt to end of cocking slot in cocked position.
I’ve taken some photos but don’t know to post them, I can email to anyone who wants to take a look ?!
Cheers again

happy for you to email them to me (email in profile) but it sounds fine...

[T 20]

Something else I've come across with the 35/50/55/90 articulated cocking link which can cause problems is wear in the pins on the linkage which can easily account for 1mm of play.




All the best Mick

[tinbum]

Aaaaarghhh, kill it!

kill it!




KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!





Sorry, that's better. As you were.

[Shed tuner]

piston / cocking slot clearance looks fine/normal.

As per earlier question - which way did you have to pull the catch to gain the clearance - assisting the latch spring by sliding towards the breech (in which case the spring may need replacing) or compressing it ?

Either way, scraping a mm out of the stock scallop for clearance is no big deal.

[randl]

piston / cocking slot clearance looks fine/normal.

As per earlier question - which way did you have to pull the catch to gain the clearance - assisting the latch spring by sliding towards the breech (in which case the spring may need replacing) or compressing it ?

Either way, scraping a mm out of the stock scallop for clearance is no big deal.

I have to pull the catch against its spring tension towards the muzzle to get clearance. It touches at the top part of the cutout. You can see the mark on the stock photo I sent .
Thanks
I’ll get my son to take some photos of the cocking process later .I don’t have enough hands to do it all myself!

[Shed tuner]

ahh.. now I see the mark - picy below.

just get a dremel / file and remove a little wood from the stock cutout. As the mark is so high, it may be the front stock screw is not tight enough, or the stock inletting needs a little scraping to get the action to sit a fraction deeper in the stock, therefore aligning the latch more centrally with the cutout. Or the rear trigger guard screws are too tight ?

[randl]

Yes I’ll probably do that .
Just another thought , can I measure the stroke by putting a rod down the transfer port in the cocked position till it touches the piston washer , and then deduct the length of the port ? If not how do you measure the stroke length?
Cheers again.

[TonyL]

As you are already okay to cock it without the stock being fitted, I'd clean the cocking slot area. Choose a part of the piston that can accurately be measured (in both cocked and uncocked positions). Measure in uncocked and then cocked. Done. It should be relatively easy to decide on a nice, reliable reference marker. I wouldn't be sticking things down the TP when a rifle's cocked.

[randl]

Thanks Tony that makes sense. Will try it later

Ok , just measured it as you suggested at 67.63mm , so obviously slightly less than the 69 mm others have got as a result of the piston change.

[Shed tuner]

Thanks Tony that makes sense. Will try it later

Ok , just measured it as you suggested at 67.63mm , so obviously slightly less than the 69 mm others have got as a result of the piston change.

it's within the margin of error, it's fine. Do a little woodwork and get shooting it

[randl]

Just to say a big thankyou to all of you that helped on this, what a friendly place this still is !
The woodwork has been relieved to allow it to cock , just needs a bit a danish oil to seal it at some point.
You can’t see the alteration from side on so it all looks good.
After a few shots to clear it , it’s doing 525fps with H&N ftt . Might settle in a bit hopefully, if not I’ll have to tinker .
The saga continues.

[Shed tuner]

It should be a good deal more powerful with the synthetic seal.

If you add a power washer, and the power takes a nice jump, great.
If you add a washer, and it doesn't it's probably over-sprung (too much spring). Lop off a coil and retest.

[randl]

It should be a good deal more powerful with the synthetic seal.

If you add a power washer, and the power takes a nice jump, great.
If you add a washer, and it doesn't it's probably over-sprung (too much spring). Lop off a coil and retest.

I’ve ordered a new breach seal , so I’ll see what it does with that first. The one I’ve got in there now and tested it with is a used one from a 95 I had laying around .The original one was crumbling.

[TonyL]

Good move re the breech seal. And excellent advice, as always, from JB.

[randl]

I made some progress !
After changing the breach seal and not gaining any power I scratched my head for a bit and decided that perhaps the new seal that came on the new piston was a bit undersized.Ordered a new green Aussie seal and waited for delivery. Re-lubed and put back together , at the same time I took another coil off the mainspring now 24 coils . Fired a few clearing shots and presto 11.6 with ftts.
Will see how it beds in now and obviously keep an eye on power as would ultimately prefer 11.2 so may perhaps need to reduce the spring again .
Thanks again to all who helped out !