HW35 Fettling

[Mach 1.5]

They don't I'm sorry to say. Mach 1.5

[maximus]

Not wishing to distract from your post but I have been thinking of doing similar.
Mine is the rare HW35L or Luxus Monte Carlo as it was sometimes called. Actually better grain beech with nicely chequered grip woodwork which I describe as being halfway between the regular beech stock of the 80s and the luxury Walnut export.
I was lucky to not get a leaky breech, but I've basically worn the gun out. Literally 100s of Rooks during the 80s and a few too many plinking sessions.
I am thinking of buying a new one, with the benefits of the latest seal and TP design but fitting it into this superb Luxus stock as I hate the new stocks compared to this one.

Actually, the 35 luxus you have is a Walnut stock, not beech. Mine came up very nice when refurbished.

[Brad3]

what bits are worn out ?

Ive got wear into the side of the breech block section caused by the barrel lock lever.
1000s of rounds.
It still functions but unsightly.
Trigger probably requires stripping and parts replacing. Main sear looks badly worn.
Lost a fair bit of bluing here and there.
Have considered a project rebuild of course but the latest reports on much better performance from the new seal versions might just be an easier option. (Cost is of no consequence in my choice)

[benchstop]

Not wishing to distract from your post but I have been thinking of doing similar.
Mine is the rare HW35L or Luxus Monte Carlo as it was sometimes called. Actually better grain beech with nicely chequered grip woodwork which I describe as being halfway between the regular beech stock of the 80s and the luxury Walnut export.
I was lucky to not get a leaky breech, but I've basically worn the gun out. Literally 100s of Rooks during the 80s and a few too many plinking sessions.
I am thinking of buying a new one, with the benefits of the latest seal and TP design but fitting it into this superb Luxus stock as I hate the new stocks compared to this one.

I too have a 35 luxus stock (square forend with no groove, chequered grip and raised cheek piece) which is made from walnut. I have never heard of one being produced in beech?

[TonyL]

Would you like to borrow my HW35 customisation tool Tone?

You nasty, horrible little man!

[TonyL]

Tony, any drag of the cocking arm over the spring? I'd had one in the past that had the cocking arm bent from someone trying to free a seized piston.

Hi Mark,

Nope, no signs or sounds of it dragging over the spring, Mark. (The one on my other older one did....clack, clack, clack.....plus someone had, in the past, fitted a roll pin at the joint and it had come loose in recent times, making it even worse!), but this one does seem okay other than there doesn't appear to be any clearance between the arm and the cylinder, for about a 30mm section of the arm, ahead of the "horn". I was hoping to not have to fit a new one to keep the cost down, but then I think about how improved the other one now feels with the new arm that I might be tempted....

PM received, by the way, and replied to. Thank you.

[TonyL]

If the cocking arm needs replacing I think one from a 99 will fit as an alternative.

Yep, I think all the articulated ones are the same, Gary.

[TonyL]

I'd not rush to short stroke it unless you want really low power. Down to 7FP, it'll be fine as is. and reduce cocking effort Ironically, synth seal and large port should work fine with low preload/weak spring and 7 FP.

if you shorten the stroke, the large port will become more problematic. can be somewhat addressd though reducing preload.

Why not just sleave the port and be done with it ? Leathr will still be fine at 3.0mm. Also I'd "assume" that it may be suffering from porous breech if it's very harsh. the loose (unless it's silly loose) seal won't do that on it's own. But maybe would with a dodgy breech seal in combination...

Thanks, Jon.

My problem is.....I don't have much of what I'd need to do certain jobs; certainly not the sleeving - I'm back to kitchen table fettling as my "workshop" is rammed!

When I thought about short-stroking, I did also think that this might severely affect the SCR and hence efficiency. So I won't. But I thought if I went back to leather seal that would negate the need to reduce the port size (and also restore that old school charm).

Ironically, my other old one (large port again) shot amazingly well on its first build. It was a real dog of an example and has certainly seen better days. I wanted a new leather seal but couldn't get one anywhere at the time.....until I rang Knibbs who told me they had one. Brilliant service...it arrived very quickly....BUT it was a synthetic seal convertor plus parachute seal and credit card receipt for at least double the amount I was expecting. Cheeky buggers, I thought. But I didn't kick off and rebuilt the rifle with it fitted. It shot beautifully sweetly with its V-Mach spring and guide kit. It was only doing 7.5ft.lbs, but was so refined and so accurate that I was happy to run it like that......

UNTIL I thought I'd fit the later, lighter piston, giving more stroke and taking the parachute seal. I thought I might as well do the leaky breech fix at the same time. When I stripped it, that Knibbs seal was very, very tight. Did the leaky breech and fitted new piston with parachute seal. Result.....just over 11ft.lbs. But because I had done the breech, fitted that new piston giving longer stroke and now had a properly fitting piston seal, I'm not sure which change really contributed the most to the power increase. That rifle shoots quite nicely apart from your trigger finger gets a good slap and your finger's smarting after a few shots. The previous set-up with the old style piston plus convertor plus synthetic seal would have reduced stroke a good bit (heavier piston, though) and did shoot nicely, which is why I was contemplating it, but I think I'll go back to leather on that as well.

I'll run both on standard strokes and then the Tinny Bum short-stroke extension pieces can be used for my 80s.

I've sent a message to Nick, 18Wheeler, to see if he can remember doing the breech fix in the rifle in question. If it's a no, I'll dig my JB Weld Perma Lok out (hoping it's still okay).

Mmmm.....new cocking lever or grind the old one..?

[TonyL]

I'd take the easy route, new cocking link, loctite breech fix & new red breech seal, no short stroke & leather piston seal.

.

Sounding more like the route I'll probably take, Paul. Might omit the red seal though as I've never had an issue with the standard HW one.

I got the last cocking link from Bagnall and Kirkwood when in Newcastle in the Summer. I could always give them a call and order one.

Oh yes, forgot to mention, prior to stripping there was a tiny bit of vertical play going on in the breech lock-up department. I thought I'd remembered hearing that if a small amount of the point of the latch was removed, this would work as it would allow the wider part of the latch to engage, sorting it. I checked with Uncle Mick and he confirmed this. So I did remove a little by hand a few days ago. I might just take a little more off it prior to build to ensure total solidity.

[TonyL]

New tube of Perma Lok secured yesterday just in case my tube has gone off.

[Hsing-ee]

does that include a glided piston Paul?

I’ve got a glided piston if you was to want to purchase it off of me.

[john79]

I’ve got a glided piston if you was to want to purchase it off of me.

Thank's for the offer but i will pass thankyou.

[TonyL]

Thinking, thinking, new arm or not?.....,..Once I've ground down enough of the existing arm to give the necessary clearance, will it be okay? Or do I get that new one ordered today, knowing how much the new arm improved the other oldie?.....All I did prior to fitting the new arm was to oil the hinge and work it like crazy for some time to loosen the joint......

Think I'm going to go new and be done with it.

Need to get this done and put to bed before looking at the old-school 50 and then having a good look at the arms on my 99s and 30s.....too many guns to tinker when all I really should be doing is picking them up and enjoying shooting them.....l

[Hsing-ee]

Thank's for the offer but i will pass thankyou.

No worries

[Shed tuner]

Thinking, thinking, new arm or not?.....,..Once I've ground down enough of the existing arm to give the necessary clearance, will it be okay? Or do I get that new one ordered today, knowing how much the new arm improved the other oldie?.....All I did prior to fitting the new arm was to oil the hinge and work it like crazy for some time to loosen the joint......

Think I'm going to go new and be done with it.

Need to get this done and put to bed before looking at the old-school 50 and then having a good look at the arms on my 99s and 30s.....too many guns to tinker when all I really should be doing is picking them up and enjoying shooting them.....l

You have nothing to lose. grind it down and see. with a relatively soft spring, it's not be subject to excessive force, and that arm is pretty thick/tough anyways.