Originally Posted by
TonyL
So, I finally got some playtime yesterday afternoon........
Shortened the spring a little further, collapsed flat and ground flat again. Rebuilt with the same very sparing lube. The end of the guide now sits about 7 or 8mm below the end of the cylinder, so about 12mm preload.
Result, power still high. A nudge over and feeling to be a very quick cycle still. After a few shots my trigger finger was tingling a fair bit.
If there was scope to, the obvious thing would be to shorten the spring further. But as we're now at just 12mm of preload, no scope to do so, really.
So, Jon's suggestion all along of a softer spring is sounding to be the only way forward.
Guessing reducing this spring by more and making up the preload to an acceptable level by the use of washers, reducing the amount of "active spring" but keeping that preload will just result in too stiff a spring?
So, what we're working with is old-style piston with fixed-on steel 'O' ring head, made to the same dimensions as the synthetic head convertor. Older pistons being heavier than newer style ones, shorter stroke and then stroke reduced even more by the carrier. Plus a little heavier. TP in the 3 to 3.3 region, I seem to remember. Piston is a nice, sliding fit. A little bit of resistance. Prior to the 'O' ring head, a new HW parachute seal was a sloppy, loose fit.
Question is, this thing is seemingly so, so efficient, could I actually get away with that nice, weak TX spring? I'd be happy at 9.5 - 10ft.lbs and sweet, soft shooting. As I can't make guides and top hats, I'm guessing then that the TX rear guide would work fine with the flange being 30mm and guessing piston rod will work with the TX guide. If the flange is no thicker, rod should go through to the trigger okay, too?
Or a 77/97 spring?
Any suggestions, peeps?
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