TX200 shroud removal

[SteveH]

I have bought a new TX200HC, unfortunately the person who assembled this rifle didn't put the shroud on straight and it's causing lock up issues with the underlever.

I want to fix that, which will involve removing the shroud and resetting it.

I have a question though for anyone who has done this, do I need to remove the barrel first or can I just do this without doing that.

I know there's a grub screw and then it's bonded on so a blow torch will be required to break that bond.

Cheers

PS. Yes I could return it to AA but the RFD is over an hour away and I really don't have time to make two trips there for something I can probably do myself.

[Shed tuner]

no need to remove the barrel, just heat it all up evenly and twist it off. I've not see one with a grub srew yet, but maybe it's a thing on newer rifles ?

But if this is a new rifle, I would have AA sort it, as you might slightly discolour the bluing. but it's generally fine, just let the heat soak in rather than trying to rush. Also be sure to remove the plenum if you have one, as the plastic will melt.

[rapidresponse1]

good advice from above

[airgunwerks]

A blowtorch will melt the plastic baffles....

[angrybear]

Contact AA explain the RFD is Miles away & ask to post it direct to them, they might even collect it,
I certainly wouldn't invalidate the warranty on a brand new £700+ rifle by doing DIY.

[Shed tuner]

A blowtorch will melt the plastic baffles....

on an HC, there is a removable plastic plenum. Only the full length rifle has the plastic baffles.

[Shed tuner]

Contact AA explain the RFD is Miles away & ask to post it direct to them, they might even collect it,
I certainly wouldn't invalidate the warranty on a brand new £700+ rifle by doing DIY.

agreed...

[SteveH]

Well it's off and has been reattached straight.

Thanks for the advice and concern, I know it could have gone back but I just can't be bothered with the faff for the sake of a 20 minute job.

There are a couple of differences on the new 2025 actions though, one is the grub screw under the underlever, the other is a chamfer between the tube on the main action and the barrel holder. I wish it was flush, the link looks daft.